From: m35products (m35prod@optonline.net)
Date: Thu Dec 15 2005 - 16:57:28 PST
Ryan:
I did the same thing on my M35.
I installed a Wiremold (r) two-gang electrical box (part # 5747-2) to house
the switches. First reason: the dashboard is very thick steel, making
drilling difficult, and second reason: I thought that since the box could be
removed by the next owner, no non-original holes (other than two 1/8"
mounting holes for the box) would detract from the truck's appearance. The
wiremold box is clean and neat looking, and has square corners. It makes a
nice utilitarian-looking installation. The one hole in the dash needed to
pass wires was already there on my truck. I mounted the box just to the left
of the glovebox door, on the face of the dashboard. Painted O/D, it looks
unobtrusive and almost original.
http://www.wiremold.com/www/consumer/products/metal_raceway/index.asp
To mount the switches, use a blank two-gang electrical wall plate, which can
be drilled easily, as they are thin metal. I drilled holes for 4 switches,
and 4 pilot lights, because I wanted front driving lights, which I mounted
under the bumper, rear flood lights for backing and working at the rear (I
mounted these in holes that were already in the rear body support members.)
The other two switches were for a yellow strobe and a blue strobe on the cab
roof. One for hazard and one for volunteer fire service.
This is the type of work light I used:
http://www.autobarn.net/rounrub12vtr.html They have universal mounting
brackets, and are easy to aim. $12 each at NAPA.
They are 12 volt, of course, but since the bulbs have two terminals each,
and are not internally grounded, I just moved some wires around, and by
running a jumper between each pair of lamps,was able to wire each pair in
series on the 24-volt supply.
+24 ---fuse--- switch-----first lamp------(JUMPER WIRE)-------second
lamp---frame ground
Later, I mounted a limit switch on the transmission hump, which activates
when I put the truck in reverse. This switch turns on the rear lamps for
back-up lighting.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611599691&ccitem
This is the type I used, but mine is a bit smaller, and was found in a
surplus store. It cost around 20 bucks. It has a flexible shaft that just
rides on the gear shift handle.
Hope this info helps.
APB
www.M35products.com
----- Original Message -----
> Anyone add additional lights to their deuces? I'm looking at
From: "Ryan Gill" <rmgill@mindspring.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:11 PM
Subject: [MV] Extra Lights on Deuces
> installing some Flood lights to the front and rear of my 2.5 ton and
> I'm looking for ideas.
>
> My current thinking is to install the front pair under the front
> bumper by adding a 16 gauge steel bracket under the bumper mounting
> bolts. I'll run the power leads up to a switch/relay combination
> under the dash with a circuit breaker and power supply lead off of a
> common accessory bus bar that I'll install.
>
> I'm also looking at adding a rear work/backup light to the rear of
> the deuce. Where I'll mount that, I'm not sure yet.
>
> As far as switches go, I'm figuring on just making a 4 switch panel
> to mount under the dash in arms reach rather than have several
> individual switches. That way I can easily mount the single power
> feed buss near the switches and feed each one.
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