From: James Shanks (n1vbn@yahoo.com)
Date: Thu Mar 02 2006 - 00:08:53 PST
Bob,
I tend to agree with Jay on most points he made.
I agree the resistor is possibly part of the
problem. Normal SOP is to mount a second resistor
just above or below the factory mount in addition
to the spare you carry in the glove box.
Regarding the Splitfire spark plugs...I used em
on my Harley (84 FLHT-C) and got rid of em after
two months of trial. Worked fine at speed but
loaded up at extended idle like you wouldn't
believe. AKA it ain't an aircraft engine or a
race car so go back to a stock plug and you've
eliminated one potential problem.
Replace the ignition coil with a new one just
to be sure the coil is good. A cracked coil will
run fine when dry and cool but will fire
erratically when it overheats. Last item is check
the polarity of the coil wires, if the wires are
hooked up in reverse it will give you speed
problems over 30 MPH or so. The coil terminals
should be marked Positive and negative.
James Shanks
1985 M-1009
1998 IMZ 8.103
-- Jay Travis <dagobert@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> Bob,
> I'm currently helping friend convert his 71
> 'Cuda from a 440 to a 426 hemi
> set-up, and he's a long-time Mopar guy. He was
> mentioning something along
> this line about a bad batch of ballast
> resistors that Chrysler had. He
> said they'd sometimes go through 3 or 4 of them
> till they got a good one.
> Also, older Mopar alternators have a problem
> not putting out much of a
> charge at idle speeds; maybe it's a constant
> drain situation during the
> long idling that's dragging down the voltage
> low enough to let the plugs
> load up (split-fires are bad about doing that
> anyway). You might try
> taking the alternator to a local rebuild shop
> and getting it checked at low
> RPM to see what the output is. They might be
> able to replace it with a
> higher output model that would fit. Depends on
> how important originality is
> vs. functionality to you. Another help might
> be something like one of
> those Optima batteries? Hope that helps.
> Jay
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: mkmvpa@juno.com <mkmvpa@juno.com>
> > To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
> <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> > Date: 2/27/2006 7:51:00 PM
> > Subject: [MV] Dodge M880 troubleshooting
> >
> > I have a 1977 Dodge M880. It has one problem
> that really annoys me and
> have been unable to fix. After it has been
> idling for along time during a
> parade the engine has trouble staying running
> at the low RPMs and when it
> does die it is difficult to restart. Then after
> all of this and I start to
> head home, I can have it floored and it won't
> make more than 30 MPH. I have
> some success when I pull the wire bundles loose
> from the firewall and every
> other connector under the hood, but don't think
> that is the whole problem
> as it runs better but stills has what seems
> some ignition weakness. The
> voltage regulator, ignition
> switch,alternator,ballast resistor, coil,
> plugs, plug wires, and engine wiring harness
> were all replaced a little
> over 2 years ago. The plug wires and coil are
> Accel and the plugs are
> Split-fires. All were new parts. This is not a
> constant problem but has
> without fail manifested itself during idle at
> slow speeds during a parade,
> I did note that the firewall disconnects for
> the wires running to the
> ammeter seemed burned and had melted the
> plastic around them during and
> inspection this last summer. I replaced both
> ends of the wire with blade
> connectors directly connecting each end to the
> corresponding end on the
> other side of the firewall.
> >
> > If anyone has a good idea what might be
> happening please let me know.
> >
> > Thank You,
> >
> > Bob
> > MVPA#23437
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.4 : Tue Jul 18 2006 - 21:41:43 PDT