From: Glen Closson (glen_closson@earthlink.net)
Date: Fri Mar 24 2006 - 18:38:54 PST
Hi Patrick,
However, if the pulse has long rise and fall times, there will be very
Also, the ~22AWG wires on mine will not support 20-50 amps, they will act
One of these days I'll connect a scope to mine and see what really (if
Regards,
Glen
"Chance favors the prepared mind." ~ Louis Pasteur
-----Original Message-----
The reason not to alter the wiring is simple. The warning is generic for the
The unit works as we know by causing a specific kind of pulse to be applied
Lengthening the leads appreciably can reduce the amount of 'high frequency'
Lengthening the leads with small, or even the same size, wire can decrease
Find me the patent number(s) and I can probably tell more.
PJ
Bruce C. Beattie wrote:
> Hi Henry,
I agree with you that lengthing the leads on a pulse-related device may
reduce the effectiveness.
little high-frequency energy.
more like a fuse at that current. And to get that kind of current off a
small solar powered device, it would take a long time to store it in order
to blast the battery.
anything) comes out of it.
From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On Behalf
Of Patrick Jankowiak
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 6:13 PM
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
Subject: Re: [MV] Solargizers
public so that they do not call pulse and ask all kinds of silly questions
of their engineers.
to the battery.
energy and alter the waveform of the pulse reaching the battery because of
increased inductance of the wires and/or increased capacitance along the
wiring path if it is long enough or has enough bends. The battery is an
important part of the circuit as well, unlike a simple load like a light
bulb.
the amount of current through the battery during the pulse due to additional
impedance now in series with the unit. A poor soldering job (or wire
nuts/crimp connections) causes unwanted extra resistance. If I am not
mistaken the battery maintainers of this type cause very short 20-50 amp
pulses with low rise and fall times. It's like hitting the crud with an
electric jackhammer. If you only tap the crud, it does not come off. you
have to smack it but good. Additionally, it is possible that if you string
the wires out 15 feet, the unit might generate unwanted electrical noise.
Therefore do not alter the wires to the battery unless you know exactly what
you are doing. And they won't tell you what you are doing, betcha.
> The ones from Gene were 24 volt solargizers witch spanned two
> batteries connected in series, If I remember right. The instructions
> that came with them made a big point of not altering the leads between
> the control cube and the batteries. Although you could do all the
> splicing you wanted between the cube and the solar collector.
>
> Bassed on that, I would be hesitant to alter that configuration
> without first checking with the manufacturer to find out what the
> critical parameters were. Ofcourse you may run into the whole thing
> where they want you to buy more solargizers, so they say you can't
> make alterations. But I think in this case there is probably a
> legitament reason for not altering the configuration.
>
> Bruce
> ygmir wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> I'm wondering if I can use the wonderful Solagizers I got from Gene,
>> to maintain more than one battery at a time, if they are wired
>> parallel, so they are still 12V?
>> If so, would I hook the positive to the pos. on the first battery,
>> and the neg. to the last?
>> And, do they work/are they necessary, on gel batteries?
>> Making sure MV content is here:
>> I'd sure like to keep these batteries ready to start my MV's...........
>> Also, how do you tell if they are 12 or 24V? I know they are supposed
>> to sense the voltage, but, it says you can get models for each. Is it
>> the size of the solar panel?
>> Thanks,
>> Henry
>>
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