Assuming the vehicle is reasonably sound you can be quite brutal about
pulling the panels together, but you'll have to pull the running board
(watch the bolts - you can make new ones by welding core plugs on top
of standard coach bolts if they break) and the battery box cover plus
the passengers foot plate. I'd remove the door as well, assuming the
eight bolts will move. Use a blowtorch on the panels for 3" or so each
side of the joints, once the paint has gone keep the heat on and you
will see the lead melt out (wear a dust mask) When cool use a grinder
to remove any yellow brazing, then you can just pull the panels
together and mig-weld them solid. I put some new metal behind the
original joints there because the original sheet is quite thin. You
might have to do some repairs by the passengers right foot too, as the
cowl / floor joint is rather weak and this is where your 1/2" gap will
originate. Then just make the surface flat (using body lead if you can
or high strength filler otherwise) and you're done. It will take you
longer to pull the running board and door that the rest of the repair,
and I would re-fit the door as soon as you had the joints welded to
check fit and closure. Adjustment of door gap and angle for closure
is by bending the hinge plates - I had to re-bend mine this afternoon,
when I was pulling the top hinge to fit a rear view mirror (obligatory
on LH drive in the UK) I straightened the hinge plate and the door
wouyldn't shut right. Hope this helps. Gordon, Falkirk,
Stirlingshire, Scotland. (8154-3909)
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