There are any number of things to look for. First is, does it have flat front fenders
or are they curved (ala CJ-5 or 7). If curved, its a CJ-5 or M-38A1. The
easilest thing to look for to check to see if it is an MB/GPW is a tailgate. If it has
a tailgate (factory, not hacked out) it is a CJ-2. Also, look for a glove box on the
right (passenger) dash. The CJ did not have them. Also, if it says Willys anywhere, it
is a tip to being a CJ, however, the hood and windshield of the two could be switched.
The CJ hood was also taller than the MB. Another BIG tip off is whether it has
toolboxes in the rear corners in the wheelwells. Nothing but the MB/GPW had them. I
will assume this is enough to get you to making the determination of CJ vs. MB. As one
last check, see if the bellcrank is mounted on the axle,
ala MB or on the frame CJ/M38.
Determining whether it is an MB/GPW is the first step. If it is, it is considerably
more valuable than a CJ-2 or 3. Now as to the condition. As with any other vehicle, is
it badly rusted? If not, is it highly modified. This is a very difficult point discuss
without either of us having seen it. First modification most anyone will ever make is
changing the engine. Look and see if it still retains the original flat four cylinder
engine. If it does, see if it says Willys and Jeep cast into it. If it ways JEEP, it
is a post war engine. This doesn't destroy the value, it just reduces it to some folks.
Also check immediately in front of the thermostat housing (you'll likley have to scrape
away a coat of gunk and dirt) and see if it has a GPW pressed into the head. If it is a
GPW engine, even in a Willy body, don't despair. You can always trade for a Willys from
a Ford GPW nut. If you can clean off the boss immediately behind the waterpump, you
should find a serial number stamped into the block. If preceded by MB, it is Willys
WWII production, if GPW, it is Ford WWII production. If no prefix, it is postwar. If
no serial, it could be WWII production replacement engine or block. Now, get out from
under the hood.
Start to check the other equipment. Is the backseat still there? They are usually not,
if it is, it is a plus, especially if a Ford GPW marked piece. Is the blackout
headlight there? Are the top bows present? Are the bow brackets there? Are the seats
the correct low back or are they CJ-2/3 highbacks. Are all the guages there?
Now to the actual valuation phase. If everything is there and pretty much intact, (I
know you likely don't want to hear this) it could likely bring $5000 to $6000 in
restored condition. Unrestored but complete running WWII jeeps are bringing upwards of
$5000 nowadays. Since this one is not original (restored) I can only assume from your
comments that it is not 100% original. Also affecting the value is whether it is an MB
or GPW. GPWs with all correct F marked parts are worth more, usually. A quick check to
see if it is a GPW is to check the crossmember in front of the radiator. If round, it
is Willys. If an inverted U section, it is a Ford. There are any number of other
differences, but that is the quickest check, assuming someone has not switched bodies,
which did sometimes happen during Army Depot level rebuilds. To verify the body, check
the toolbox lids. If absolutely flat, you likely have a Willys. If pressed with
embossed ribs, it if likely a Ford. Again I say likely as someone could have switched
them. Also check the depression around the toolbox lid release button. If round it is
Willys, if rectangle then its Ford. If it matches up frame and body, it is likely worth
slightly more. Finally, check the rear panel. If it says FORD or WILLYS embossed into
the panel on the left side, it is an early model (mid 42 or before) so the value has
increased again. Now check the grille. If it is stamped sheet metal nothing special,
but if it is a series of bent and welded flat iron stock (called a slat grille), it is
one of the first few thousand Willys built jeeps and the price went way. up. If it has
the slat grille and no glove box, it is even earlier--1941 pre Pearl Harbor.
In any case, even if it has a glove box and dataplates, don't necessarily trust them.
Until you can match the dataplate to the serial on the frame, don't get too excited with
any delivery dates. To find the serial on an MB look on the left (as if sitting in the
jeep) frame rail on the inside about three inches behind the bumper. It should have a
small metal tag with the serial preceded by MB. For a GPW, check under the hood, again
on the left frame rail, behind the shock mount and in front of the motor mount. It
should be stamped into the top of the rail. When you find the serial, check it against
the dataplates to see if they match. If they do, be happy.
As to the electrical, look back under the hood. Does it have a big ugly box regulator
mounted on the right inside of the fender? Does it have a generator about a foot long
and five to six inches in diameter or is it larger with a big plug multi pin plug coming
out of it. If small and long, it is a six volt and original to the MB/GPW/CJ-2. If
bigger in diamter with the big plug, it is 24V and off an M-38 likely. Has it been
replaced with an alternator, if yes the system has been switched to 12V, but can always
be switched back, but it is costly. Also, while talking electrical, does it have a
battery box or tray? If a box under the hood, it is likely an M-38. Does it have a
battery box in the cowling between the hood and windshield? If so, again, M-38. Look
at the instrument panel. Is it removable as a unit by four dzus fastners/screws? If
so, M-38. This is of course assuming it has flat fenders, otherwise its an M-38A1.
The M-38 also has the high windshield but with vent in the center and the wipers are
bottom mounted.
This list is by no means meant to be exhaustive. It is meant only to assit you in
deciding in what you are looking at. I am sure others on the list can give you even
more info and likely correct something I have written. I do not claim to be an expert,
but I have owned or currently own one each GPW, M-38 and M-38A1.
Jim Rice
Lawton, Oklahoma
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