Thanks for the information.
> As far as I know all the DUKW seals except the axle shaft end seals
> (the ones in the screwed retainer thing)....
Are these the seals which (in the manual) appear to be part of the outer
bearing retaining nut on the rear axles?
> Most people prefer modern seals as the originals weren't up to much....
So the NOS wheel hub and inner axle seals on a DUKW are the same type as used
on the CCKW's and other over-the-road trucks in the 40's? The seal
construction isn't something "special" just for amphibious beasts?
> Axle bearings should have some grease but NOT be packed,
> and they will trap water anyway.
I assume we're talking about the rear axles here. Does this mean the rear
axle bearings are lubricated with gear oil from the differential? If this is
true, what does the seal on the outer wheel bearing retaining nut do?
> Someone (Jean-Paul Caron?) did rework his axle ends and pinions to take
> modern double lip seals which apparently were a great improvement...
So, two small lips are better than one big fat one? :)
> pressurising the axles through the vent lines at 3 - 4 psig in an effort to
> keep water out.
Yeah, I'm still thinking about that one......
> ....and CHECK YOUR PILLOW BLOCK for slop, if you are at all uncertain pull
> it and replace the bearings (standard units like CCKW)
I remember your strong warning from an earlier post regarding the pillow
block. I'm planning on pulling it next (I'm working on the front axle now)
when I work on the rear axles. I believe I can completely dis-assemble the
rear axle (including removing the differential) while the housing is still
attached to the springs. I'm not too sure about the intermediate axle though.
I don't think I have enough clearance between the axle and the hull to remove
the differential: I may have to remove the entire axle (like I had to do for
the front).
I assumed, because the driveline tubes looked good on the outside, that the
drivelines on the inside would also be good. Wrong assumption (at least on
the front one). Severely rusted to the point I'm wondering how much metal is
left and is it strong enough not to twist the first time I try and climb out
of the water on a soft beach. Will have to sandblast it and get a closer
look. May have to have the local driveline shop re-tube it. I was pleasantly
surprised to learn all 12 u-joints for the drivelines (not counting the winch
pto or the propeller shaft) were the same. Maybe I can get a volume discount!
> The two biggest causes of dead DUKWs seen over the years have been head >
gaskets and failure of the intermediate axle drive.
Head gasket failures? Caused by overheating and followed by warping the head?
> I dont know if the weak link is the transfer case intermediate axle drive >
(transfer case input can turn for hours with no lubrication when you are >
using the marine drive remember)....
What? You mean there is nothing big enough turning around in there to provide
splash lubrication? Dumb design.
> a spare pillow block is on my parts shelf (you can keep a CCKW one and swap
> the bits when you need it) You need to follow the 'after operation' and
> 'daily' lube schedules.....If you put it in salt water give it a run in
> fresh water before storing it, plus open all the drains for a while and
> flush out the hull.
Thanks, good advice.
Mike Bennett 1944 DUKW
PG&E
MAB5@pge.com
(209) 434-9343
Fresno, California, USA
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