I'll bet that you can find a plating shop in your area that can dip large parts. Plating
shops make use of a wide variety of solutions, from chemical strippers through hot caustic
soda and phosphoric acid baths. The latter processes will also remove rust, which most
chemical paint strippers don't touch.
Also, shops that do galvanizing often use dip-type cleaning processes to remove paint,
rust, and mill scale prior to the galvanizing process.
I've had some large pieces stripped by furniture stripping outfits, but they probably
won't be able to help you with rust removal.
As to doing chemical stripping yourself, well...having stripped several aircraft (and a
LOT of car parts) over the years, I can tell you it's a messy job and it requires proper
safety gear (respirator, eye protection, long chemical-resistant gloves, etc.).
There are "safety strippers" on the market that are much less toxic, and work quite well,
as long as you have the time to soak the parts for quite a while. However, certain paint
types are not removed easily by these safety strippers. The nastier chemicals do a better
job on those paints.
You asked about sand blasting. Another alternative to "sand" blasting is to blast with a
less abrasive media, such as walnut shells or plastic beads. This does a good job on paint
and some loose rust, but it won't remove hard, firmly entrenched rust.
The rusted areas would need an agressive media such as silicon carbide or aluminum oxide.
Silica sand will work, but not as well. Aluminum oxide and silicon carbide grit can be
used over again several times, as long as it is strained and kept dry. Silica sand breaks
down very quickly and is more dangerous to breathe.
The important thing is to use a good priming system as soon as possible after cleaning.
I'd suggest using a two-part self-etching zinc phosphate wash primer for the first coat. A
wash primer is thin and it can penetrate small crevices that more viscous paints will not.
Most use alcohol in one of the mixing parts, which has an affinity for moisture, unlike
oil-base paints. Then follow it with a compatible zinc phosphate primer sealer, and then a
surface primer. Make sure the primers are compatible with the type of final paint you plan
to use. Sometimes it's advisable to stay with the same brand throughout the whole process.
You might also want to look at some of the new water-based systems. These have come a LONG
way in just the last few years.
Hope that gives you a few ideas.
Alan
Torfinn Sørnes wrote:
> The book All American Wonder talks about chemical dipping of jeep part as a better
> alternative to sand blasting. This process should remove both old paint and rust and
> leave the bare metal left. I don't know of any companys that offer this service in my
> area, so I wonder is this something I can do by myself? What type of liquid is used, and
> where can it be bought?
>
> Torfinn Sornes
> Norway
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