Not sure that will work too well with the spring shackle mount. There isn't a
whole lot of clearance between the mount bushing and the frame and usually
the bushing partially obscures the rivet head. (Depending on the mount, the
other rivet usually has enough showing to do what you describe in theory.)
On the front frame horns on the MB, there is a "C" shaped box reinforcement
that is riveted along with the spring shackle mount and the top bumper gusset.
I have found it to be very difficult to:
1) heat the rivet
2) align the spring shackle, lower bumper gusset, box reinforcement
3) insert the rivet
4) Get heavy stock and clamp the bottom rivet head securely
5) Insert heavy stock into the box reinforcement and clamp
without the rivet cooling down too much. With the rivet now cooler, I have
found that a C-clamp will not have adequate force to make the rivet tight.
Couple that with trying to make the rivet tail look like the original, I can't
do it. (Maybe someone else done this or has an easier way. Like a
hydraulic press or something.) A frame like what was described is good for
someone not looking for total originality. Bolts make better sense. I
would just find a frame with good shackles mounts. I wouldn't want to mess
with safety if a spring shackle mount broke off and killed someone just to
make it look original. When I replace bumper gussets, I keep the original
rivets in place for this reason. To do that I:
1) clean up the old gusset metal and with a cutting wheel cut back the gusset
in the form of a "V" shape.
2) Take a scrap piece of paper and trace the outline of what is left of the old
gusset.
3) Copy outline on to a repro gusset.
4) Cut repro gusset on that outline.
5) Weld the repro gusset to the frame and old gusset.
6) Fix shape of repro gusset since they are usually not the same shape as
the original by cutting and filling.
7) Grind and fill gusset weld until you can't tell it has been scarfed in.
8) Redo the weld beads on the underside of the gusset (top side for the bottom
gusset since it is upside down).
Original rivets are still there and the gusset is indistinguishable from the original.
Depending on whether it is the top or the bottom, I usually drill a few holes
in the gusset for plug welds to the frame for strength. (Top gussets on the MB
are hard to do this to because of the way the frame horn angles.) While this
method is plenty strong enough to hold a bumper on, I am not sure I would
use a tandem hitch on it or trailer it with the bumper without first considering
whether you have quality welds that will hold up to that kind of punishment.
An alternative I thought about, but never tried, would be to cut the spring shackle
bushing out to get clearance. Then use a bucking bar with heavy stock clamped
inside the box reinforcement. After the rivet is tight, reweld the bushing back.
Any way you do it is a pain and frustrating. Takes some practice to do it right.
Todd Paisley
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