> If the horn button kit includes a new button, then I will take this old one
> out with a drill if I have to. As far as the wiring, I followed the manual
> and verified that there is no current getting to the horn when the horn
> button is pushed, and there is current going into the horn wire (that runs up
>
> inside the steering column). So, according to the manual, there is a problem
>
> with the horn wire(inside the steering column) or the horn button.
Rob,
Sometimes the J-hooks that hold the button in place get bent, making it hard to
remove. The horn button kits include a new button, spring, J-hook bracket,
etc., so you can just snap the thing off with a screwdriver if you have to.
Just don't pry directly against the steering wheel, since you could chip off a
piece of the hard rubber wheel. The button is made of bakelite, so it should
break pretty easily, or, since the J-hook bracket is pretty flimsy, it may just
bend out of the way.
You said there is current to the horn wire where it goes into the bottom of the
steering column.
Since the purpose of the horn button is to ground one side of the horn coil (or
a horn relay coil, depending on the vehicle), it would seem that there should
be current going to the horn (or the horn relay) if the wiring and connections
are sound.
Did you check to see if the horn button is actually grounding the wire? What
happens to the voltage that you read on the horn wire where it enters the
steering column when you press the horn button? The voltage between this wire
and the ground should drop to near zero if the horn button is working.
You can simulate the action of the horn button by disconnecting the horn wire
connector (just a little ways from where it enters the steering column) and
ground the end that goes to the horn (or relay), the horn should honk. If it
doesn't, then you've got a problem somewhere else besides the horn button.
Alan
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