Can't see a problem with leaving phosphoric acid on the rusty sections
until it clears it of rust. You could also just paint it where the rust is
& not on the bare good metal.
>I'm told that it may be necessary to cut the bearing off the shaft. My
father-in-law says he can do this >with a cutting torch without damaging or
overheating the shaft. As a mere mortal, though, I'll have to try
>something else. Maybe a high-speed grinder (that's a Moto-tool to me)
with a cut-off wheel would do the >trick.
On bearings I cannot remove, I break the metal ball bearing separator that
keeps the balls equally spaced. Use a small chisel, and a screwdriver to
tear it completely out from both sides. The separator has rivets, or is
spot welded to it's mate on the other side. When this is done move all the
balls together leaving a gap in one place. It should now be possible to
remove the outer bearing shell, by hammering or prising.
When this is done carefully grind the inner bearing hub using a cut-off
wheel to cut a groove ALMOST thru' to the axle or shaft. This could be cut
parallel to the axle center line or at an angle if the axle has a boss or
flange in the road. There is no need to cut down to the axle, leave plenty
of meat so you don't nick the axle.
Now get a chisel that ideally is thicker than your cut groove and hit with
hammer sharply. This should easily cause the bearing hub to split at the
groove and be able to removed by hand or gentle tapping.
Always works for me and no heat goes near the axle.
Cheers & good removals,
______________________________________________________
John A. Kidd Collector: Military radio.
Tullamarine, 3043. Interests: Military aircraft
Victoria. AUSTRALIA & vehicles, Chrysler cars.
______________________________________________________
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