I have a 44 MB that had excessive play. I have just completed rebuilding
the brake and clutch pedal assembly on that.
The most wear was on the clutch pivot shaft and the brake pedal. The
wobble in the shaft adds to the wobble in the pedal shaft so much it
scrapes against the floor sheet metal when you brake or clutch. I had a
choice of buying one new from Beachwood or trying to rebuild my own. My
neighbor has a metal lathe so I decided to turn one out. In a nutshell
my experience follows:
Remove cotter pins on both ends of shaft. Had to cut them off and use a
drift pin to push them out. Loosen all the bolts in the peddle shafts
and remove the adjustable peddles from peddle shafts and then peddle
shafts from clutch pivot shaft. The brake peddle moves freely on the
shaft while the clutch is kept in pace by a woodruff key. Once both
pedals are removed I had to use a drift punch to remove the woodruff key
which was rusted in place from inside the clutch pivot shaft. This shaft
is hollow and fills with dirt and moisture, which causes the cotter pins
and woodruff key to rust in place. Loosen the plate that runs between
the master cylinder and the pivot shaft and slide the plate away from
the shaft. (I removed the lower bolt and just loosened the top bolt.)
Remove the rod that connects the clutch pivot shaft arm to the clutch
tube and slide the pivot shaft out towards the transmission.
At this point decide to but a new brake pedal shaft and clutch pivot
shaft or machine mew ones.
I reamed the brake pedal shaft out and installed a bronze bushing,
drilled it to allow the grease to enter. This only took about 30
minutes. The pivot shaft is a 1-inch thick walled hollow pipe. I used an
old drive shaft (from an old Dodge car steering shaft.) Cut a piece off
to match the length and milled it to 1 inch. Drilled 3 holes for the
cotter pins, cut a slot for the woodruff key. The tricky part was
welding the pivot arm from the old shaft to the new one. I referenced
the distance from the centerline of the arm to the centerline of the
woodruff key so I could match that on the new shaft. This is important
but not critical as you have adjustment in the clutch cable. Chucked the
old one in the lathe and cut the old weld. Slid the old arm on the new
shaft, (flip the arm 180 degrees so the wear from where the clutch
connecting rod sat is away from the rod.) I then welded the arm to the
shaft and put everything back together. The only other thing I did was
add some metal to the clutch connecting rod where it wore away from
riding in the arm and ground it round again. All this took about 2
hours.
Clearly the easy route is but the parts.
Hope some of this helps
al
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