There are several possible causes of the oil smoke:
- The honing stone grit may have been too coarse, which will increase your =
break-in time.
- The honing pattern may be incorrect. This would also increase your =
break-in time.
- Incorrect ring size or type could cause this.
- Ring gaps may not have been offset properly. If the gaps line up, you =
will lose compression and/or burn oil. This is a very common problem, =
since it's easy to forget to check them.
- If you used multiple-part oil control rings, they may not have been =
assembled properly.
- Worn valve stems and guides can cause oil smoking, though this is =
normally not as pronounced with L-head engines as it would be with an =
overhead-valve engine.
- A leaky fuel pump diaphragm could be a possible factor in this equation, =
allowing fuel to dilute the engine oil, or in some cases, allowing oil to =
be drawn into the fuel.
- Have you checked your plugs to see if ALL cylinders are using oil, or =
just one or more?
- Have you checked the compression?
- Have you checked for any thinning of the oil (possible with a leaky pump =
diaphgragm)?
- Are the oil squirt holes (con rods) facing the right direction?
- If you had access to a borescope, you could check the cylinder walls for =
any scoring or other pattern that could be caused by a broken or misalilgne=
d ring.
Hope that gives you some ideas.
Regards,
Alan
>>> OKMTRPOOL <OKMTRPOOL@aol.com> 03/27/98 07:58AM >>>
OK, I have my GPW motor back in and running OK after reboring and adding =
new
pistons and rings. Valves looked good. It idles fine and runs well at =
higher
speeds but still puts out a little blue smoke. Can I expect this to =
diminish
as the engine breaks in or am I still screwed? Anyone have similar =
experience
with this type situation? Would a heavier grade oil help? (It has 20 =
weight in
now)
===
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