-----Original Message-----
From: owner-Mil-Veh@skylee.com [mailto:owner-Mil-Veh@skylee.com] On Behalf
Of David P. Dusenbury
Sent: Monday, May 25, 1998 7:29 AM
To: Mark Masse
Cc: MIL-VEH List
Subject: Re: [MV] M-715
(Mark Masse wrote:)
Much truth to this. I am about 50% done with rebuilding a '67 M715.
Comments interspersed with Mark's.
> -Check rear bumper for rust on the inside
Only surface rust across whole frame. Ended up buying a sandblaster for
the whole project. Used POR-15 on the frame -- great stuff.
> -Check for original tailgate (HARD to find on M715s that were turned into
> fire trucks)
I purposely shopped around for one that was NOT a brush truck. They got
a lot of abuse (even sitting idle with 2k lbs of water in the back is
abuse, in my book). Check for fish plates welded on the frame rails at
the rear axle spring hangers, to fix frame cracks from the
weight/abuse. A repair that several trucks I looked at had, in one
fashion or another.
> -Check for rust in floor of bed (EASY to find on M715s that were turned
into
> fire trucks)
Again, surface only. Stake pockets over fenders tend to hold water and
rust thru.
> -Check for troop seats and rear canopy bows
>
> -Check rear wheel cylinders for leakage or frozen condition
> -Check rear brake shoe condition (It'll cost you $90 to reline all the
> brakes yourself (if you have the tool for the rivets) or $160+ core to get
> remanufactured shoes--not cheap)
Knew I'd want to rebuild the brake system anyway, for safety. About
four hundred in new parts, including m/c, w/c's, hoses, shoes, and all
new line. Worth it.
> -Check rear drive shaft/U-joints for security, dents, wear/play
Another one of those nickel-and-dime items, but the security of knowing
it's right is worth it. Only 10 bucks apiece.
> -Check parking brake on transfer case for wear, and to make sure all the
> parts are there.
I have pulled the bed off of mine now, so it's easy to get to. Will
just get nickle and dimed again, looks like it needs a new band.
> -Check the cab corners, pan, and sill (rocker) panels for rust.
Easy to fix because they are not complex shapes. That is if you have a
MIG unit, torch, metal band saw, and LOTS of time and patience. Well,
at least I have the MIG and saw. ;)
> -Check all instrumentation for condition and accuracy.
Going to 12v gauges. (Putting in a 350, but for you purists, I am
saving the motor and associated parts, and using Novaks kit. It will be
all bolt-in and can be returned to OE).
> -Check for seat belts.
NAPA. They opened a counter account for me there last week. :(
> -Check condition of cab canvas and snaps.
Hard top. This one is sheet metal over the canvas frame. Was going to
remove it and put on canvas, but PO had too much fun with the welder.
Most of these I have seen in "restorable" trucks had severe surface
rust. Mine is pitted real bad, but no rust-through. It will take a lot
of body filler to smooth.
> -Check condition of windshield seal (between bottom of windshield and hood
> of truck)
Not great, but the way that the hardtop is welded on, I can just about
forget replacing it. Guess I'll have to caulk it.
> -Check operation of the transmission (1st gear and reverse are not
> sinchronized)
Rear drive shaft was gone, so I did this by finding 2wd and having
someone turn the xfer case output, with the clutch in. Not sure how
great a test this was, but the motor was frozen, and that was the only
way. At least I knew the gears would mesh.
> -Check for proper operation of the transfer case-High neutral and low/ 2
> wheel drive and 4 wheel drive. (You may need to back up a short distance
to
> shift from 4 wheel drive back to 2 wheel dirve).
Again, not a running truck. My first road test will show.
> -Check for a heater--it would have been installed from a civillian truck.
That was a nice surprise when I looked under the dash. I didn't think
any of them would have a heater (and many I saw were kludged in).
> -Check for radiator leakage.
For the money, I wouldn't worry about this. If you are going to put
money into a motor, I'd get the radiator rebuilt, so you can trust it.
My FSJ was $225 a couple of years ago -- with a new core. The 715
should be similar. With my 715, I'll get the motor in, and bolt in the
biggest (lxwxh) Howe radiator that I can. (Again, take off parts go in
the shed, not the trash).
> -Check front bumper for rust.
It surprised me how many bumpers are trashed. Mine is almost straight,
I can straighten up with a press (and maybe the torch). AB Linn has
NOS, for about sixty bucks.
> -Check body for overall condition/rust. Pay close attention to the metal
> chanels under the cab where it mounts to the frame. Rust flakes off
inside
> these chanels.
Anybody know how to paint/coat or other wise protect inside these
channels????
> $4000 for it (if it looked and drove good). This is only MY opinion,
> however, and others will have different opinions. One important lesson
Given the time and space to work on it, I'd pay (like I did) a grand for
a "lesser" vehicle, then put your money into fixing it. Less surprises
that way. Talk to some of the parts suppliers and get some feel for
replacement part costs, so when you go truck shopping, you have an idea
of what it will take to get one going.
Have a tool budget too. I have many, many tools, and a large shop.
Motor rebuilds, etc have been done in my shop. But I've still spent
over fifteen hundred bucks on tools. I now have 4 air compressors (2
gas, 2 elec) to get the volume I need to sandblast continuously (about
35cfm total, considering the duty cycles of the compressors. Depending
on the tip, sandblaster requires 10-25 cfm).
Don't forget to budget for general supplies. Sandblast sand, weld wire,
welding gas (mig, oxy-ac), sandpaper, grease, gas for the air
compressors, gas for parts runs, wd40, permatex, threadlock,
cleaner/degreaser, paint, etc, etc. Five hundred bucks will barely
touch it, based on what I've spent so far. Could easily be a thousand.
DP
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