Vintage Power Wagons has replacement heat riser valves for the manifold if
yours happens to be badly rusted. However, it is common to have some problems
when you separate the manifolds, due to the studs breaking that bolt the intake
and exhaust manifolds together. When reassembling the manifolds, clean, flat
mating surfaces and new gaskets are essential, and you must use the correct
nuts and washers, and torque them very evenly to avoid cracking the castings.
Most manifold cracks are due to someone's lack of attention to detail during
reassembly.
You could try loosening up the lock nut and closing the valve, but don't force
it. Of course, even if you do get the nut off, there is a good chance that the
valve won't move anyway, due to rust. For the time being, I'd probably just
leave the heat control (aka heat riser) valve alone. If you ever do an engine
overhaul, deal with it then.
Alan
Mike and Cheryl wrote:
> The original pulley have been changed and the water pump and crank shaft
> have
> a 4 groove (for 4 belts) pulleys, that hold a smaller width belt. the
> generator
> has a smaller single groove pulley with 8 washers behind it for spacers.
> only using one belt now to power generator and water pump. works fine
> for now but would there be any military reason for doing this?
>
> Also the manifold heat control valve adjusting lever is in the half way
> position,
> set nut plus bolt look ready to break off if I touch it. Is the stud
> replaceable
> or is welded to manifold. Is this an ok position to run in Iowa summer?
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