Situation:
-Top and sides of the tank were solid; some rust on sides but only 'surface
rust.'
-Bottom had several large patches of rust; one large hole the size of a
nickel.
-Some bottom-to-side seems were full of pin-holes.
-Drain cock was completely rusted shut.
Procedure I Took:
-completely stripped the tank with a quality paint stripper to remove ALL
traces of old paint (took about a week and lots of wire brushing)
-took tank to a radiator shop for a 'boiling' to remove internal sludge etc.
-took tank to a local sheet metal shop. There they cut out the 'bad section'
of tank and welded in new metal and also replaced the drain cock (a GOOD sheet
metal shop can do all of the metal work at one time)
-returned the tank to the radiator shop for another 'boiling' AND then they
coated the inside of the tank with a coating that permanently sealed the tank
(pinholes, new metal seams etc.)
End Result:
-Tank looks and functions like a 'new one' and is guaranteed near to leak or
rust on the inside again.
Some footnotes:
-Be sure the radiator shop is competent in using the tank sealer. They will
know how to prepare the tank for the chemicals etc.
-Be sure any welding (taps/drain cocks/etc) is done PRIOR to the tank sealer
step. Once the tank sealer has dried any welding/heating of the tank will
destroy the tank sealer.
This is what I did. If you take your time, there is no reason you cant restore
the tank to 'like new'. Most of the BAD rust I've seen on tanks is on the
bottom out-of-sight and fixable. Sorry for all the bandwidth but this might
help Good luck.
Bob
52-M38 MPVA
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