Tapping, heat and Kroil all help with stuck brake bleeders. Use a 6 point socket first, a vice grip next if the socket slips. When all else fails and you brake off the bleeder, you can carefully drill it out in a drill press. Select the appropriate size drills, so as not to damage the seat and threads. In a pinch you can bleed by loosening the brake line. You may not get all of the air out, but the brakes should be serviceable until you can perform a permanent repair. I always use Neverseize on the threads when I reinstall the bleeders.
Dave Fillman
45 MB
---- you wrote:
> Brake fluid brings up a question:
>
> Wheel cylinder bleeder valves are especially prone to rusting up and
> particularly liable to twisting off, sometimes necessitating the replacement
> of an otherwise good wheel cylinder. Impact pounding and heat seem
> inappropriate for this application. Penetrating oil doesn't seem as
> effective, as the affected parts are subject to constant exposure to the
> oxidizing agents.
>
> Any tricks out there?
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
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