Dave Fillman gave good advice, especially about using Neversieze on all
threads which are so exposed to the elements - the stuff is
indispensible also whenever steel screws into aluminum.
Additional info on the bleeder screws.
1.On the vehicle-try wire brushing the screw and soaking in penetrating
lube overnight then use the six point socket. Use the next size smaller
if the flats are badly boogered up and pound it on - you will only mess
up one small socket (maybe) and save yourself the job of taking the
cylinder off.
2.If you are to the point that the wheel cylinder is off the vehicle
but the screw is not broken off, again, wire brush and soak then use
the socket trick OR file two (pretty much parallel) flats onto the
screw and use a small open end wrench. I would use the bernzomatic
torch (lightly) on the castiron housing myself. Also, pound in an easy
out of the appropriate size and use a Tap holder to try to remove it.
3. If you have to drill it out, you might take it to a machine shop
unless you have a really good drill press which can hold the cylinder
steady. Otherwise you can slip and destroy threads in the cylinder (the
voice of experience talking here!).
4. Finally, when you get a new bleed screw into the cylinder, use the
neversieze and then take HEAVY grease or cosmolene and smush it with a
brush or your finger into the threaded junction to seal out water and
air.
Good Luck!
Mel Miller
M725 Ambulance
===
To unsubscribe from the mil-veh mailing list, send the single word
UNSUBSCRIBE in the body of a message to <mil-veh-request@skylee.com>.