>1) When in four wheel drive, and the wheel is turned to the left or right,
>an uncomfortable clunking sound is made and seems to originate from the
left
>front wheel. It is not rubbing or anything and the farther you turn the
>steering wheel, the more pronounced the sound gets. There is no problem at
>all when in rear wheel drive mode. There is currently only one thin shim on
>the axle retaining flange and when I had the wheel off to look at the wheel
>bearings (look fine), and followed the instructions in the manual, it
seemed
>to me that more shims are needed. Maybe quite a few. Anyways, how many
shims
>are typically needed to adjust front axle end play? Is this the likely
>problem or is it something more serious such as the rezeppa joint at fault?
Any decent spring re-arch shop can look at the springs and tell if they can
be saved. Look under truck repair, and look for suspension shops. Should
cost about $100 for a full set of springs, with you doing the removal and
installation.
>2) The front springs are in sad shape. They are cosmetically cleaned up,
but
>are severely sagging and look as though they were corroded to a fair extent
>before sandblasting and repainting. Are they candidates for replacement or
>can a spring shop (which I wouldn't know where to look for one) re furbish
>them? Where can one find servicable leaf springs (with the torque reaction
>spring) for the front if they need replaced? The rear is in decent
>servicable shape.
Locate it manually before timing. Turn the engine by hand, so you know what
it looks like first. Easy to miss under the grease of years.
>3). When I went to check the timing using my trusty Sears inductive timing
>light (which lights adequately on 6 volts), I was unable to locate the
>timing marks in the viewing window on the trans cover. I was indeed hooked
>to the #1 cyl. (the front one). Any thoughts?
Try tightening up the adjustment. Other wise, could be a bad mate with the
oil pump.
>4). When running, I noticed a little "wiggle" of the distributor. Is this
>normal? Doesn't seem like a good thing to me. It is not "missing" or
>exhibiting any abnormal running conditiions.
Gotta buy the junction blocks separately. There are much better
reproductions exactly like the originals, made with phenolic resin
impregnated cloth- buy these, and forget about the plastic ones which were
being pushed a few years ago. Precision Wiring does a good job on their
harnesses, but there are other vendors making them. You can buy a harness
made for vehicles with or without the filterette installed. It's nice to
take them out after they have shorted. I do recommend buying an original
switch. Another point with Precision- excellent instructions for
installation.
>5). The jeep has been rewired. Badly. Things work, but... If I were to get
>one of those nifty reproduction wiring harnesses, would I need all of the
>components such as radio suppression boxes, etc. for things to work ? Do
the
>harnesses come with the 2 and 6 post juction blocks? I don't have alot of
>experience here.
Yes, and when you get your new harness, shoot me an email, and I'll tell you
how to make your jeep have two stop lights.
>6). general question... Do these things have stop lights?
New master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, new hardlines, soft lines all the
way around, with silicone brake fluid- about $300.00 total, can be finished
by your self in two evenings, and very cheap insurance. Good luck, and wish
all my problems were so simple as yours.
John K. Seidts
1942 Indian 841
1942 WC-53
1942 WC-53
1942 WC-54
1942 GPW
1943 GPW
1944 MB
1944 Merritt and O'Keefe Generator
1945 MB
1942 GTBS
1967 M151A1 (for sale)
>7). Master cylinder sinks to floor until pumped once or twice. Then holds
>pressure. Are there rebuild kits available? Is it even an easier fix than
>that? Or does it need replaced?
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