I am going to give your questions a shot. I am also a recent purchaser of a WW2 jeep and have struggled thru most of what you have asked.
---- you wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I finally got my 1942 GPW home! It seems to be just fine except...
> 1) When in four wheel drive, and the wheel is turned to the left or right,
> an uncomfortable clunking sound is made and seems to originate from the left
> front wheel. It is not rubbing or anything and the farther you turn the
> steering wheel, the more pronounced the sound gets. There is no problem at
> all when in rear wheel drive mode. There is currently only one thin shim on
> the axle retaining flange and when I had the wheel off to look at the wheel
> bearings (look fine), and followed the instructions in the manual, it seemed
> to me that more shims are needed. Maybe quite a few. Anyways, how many shims
> are typically needed to adjust front axle end play? Is this the likely
> problem or is it something more serious such as the rezeppa joint at fault?
Do you know if you have rzeppa's, bendix or the one I can't remember joints? They get adjusted differently. Make sure you are not on a hard surface when in 4WD. It wil bind up and sound and feel like it is coming apart.
> 2) The front springs are in sad shape.
Save your torque reaction spring and you should be able to get springs from Beachwood Canvas or most spring shops.
> 3). When I went to check the timing using my trusty Sears inductive timing
> light (which lights adequately on 6 volts), I was unable to locate the
> timing marks in the viewing window on the trans cover
Manually turn the engine over, find the mark, paint it yellow or white and try again.
> 4). When running, I noticed a little "wiggle" of the distributor. Is this
> normal? Doesn't seem like a good thing to me. It is not "missing" or
> exhibiting any abnormal running conditiions.
It might have a bent shaft, fix your brakes first.
> 5). The jeep has been rewired. Badly.
I refuse to give advice on wiring, I am trying to avoid this problem.
> 6). general question... Do these things have stop lights?
There should be a pressure switch on your master cylinder that activates you brake lights. Chances are your master cylinder or the switch are shot.
> 7). Master cylinder sinks to floor until pumped once or twice. Then holds
> pressure. Are there rebuild kits available? Is it even an easier fix than
> that? Or does it need replaced?
Master cylinders and wheel cylinders are available and affordable. Old hoses that may look OK on the outside may be restricted on the inside. I prefer to not be cheap on the brakes, especially since this is a single master cylinder and any hydraulic failure takes out the entire system.
>
> Thank you all very much.
>
> Bob Kelly
----------------------------------------------------------------
Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
===
To unsubscribe from the mil-veh mailing list, send the single word
UNSUBSCRIBE in the body of a message to <mil-veh-request@skylee.com>.