> Hi Bill, Things I would try.
>
> #1. ( 90% chance of working ) Insert penetrating oil into a balloon or
rubber
> and fix it fast against the object. Small amount will do... 1/4-1/2 oz.
> Once on the lug nut, position it so the fluid is now flowing on the object
> and let it soak in for one week. You can't squirt the pen oil and go
hammer
> in 2 minutes... doesn't work that way. Needs time to soak in for really
stuck
> things. Your big rig might look a little funny with a rubber taped to one
of
> its nuts... but, what the heck, it works. lol
>
> (99% sure cure... ) Use a heavier pipe extension ... go to a 6 foot bar
and
> break it free or break it off. Use a really good socket or you will just
> break it and not the lug nut. Once the break drum is off you can tap the
> stud out and replace it with new one for about $4.
>
> (99% cures, but harder.... ) Oh I suppose you could drill it, that takes
> about 10-15 minutes. Go in thru the side/top of the nut and drill down to
the
> stud. Now soak it again.... Don't try to drill the stud as it is
extremely
> hard. The nut is made of soft metal and should be fairly easy to drill.
>
> (100% cure, but really harsh) You could crystallize it by freezing and
break
> it off and put a new stud in. There are several methods for doing this,
but
> won't go into it now because this is somewhat risky. Good luck, Jack
>
>
> P.S. Did you know that by dipping steel into liquid nitrogen the
molecules
> will reform into a more precise pattern. Imagine a molten metal
pour...when
> it cools the molecules form irregular patterns, clumps and thin areas,
> sometimes they even have micro fine cracks or weak areas leading to metal
> fatigue. Freezing the metal will actually allow these molecules to
separate
> to equal distances and make the metal up to 200% stronger and more
flexible.
> Its a fairly old process, bout 15 years now, but it takes a lot of
equipment
> to set it up and dip times must be precise. Same with the warm cycle.
> Absolutely amazing results... just incredible.
>
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