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>Eastwood Company sells an extraction kit that consists of left hand drill
bits and easy outs. In many instances drilling the hole reverse will cause
the stud to back out, if not, try the easy out. Don't break the easy
out--they are impossible to drill. If this fails take it to a machine shop.
Never never ever use an easy out or anything like it on a bolt or stud that
is siezed, they do not have the strength to release what the original
fastener itself failed to do. You will just break it off and end up comming
to someone like me to get it out and most of the time I send you over to a
die shop that uses an edm machine to 'burn' them out. That will cost you a
min of $50 and up!
If the penetrating oil does not work and heating it red (well, orange
actually) with a torch does not work then try drilling the stud out such
that you can collapse the remaining wall of the stud. Since this is a long
stud I would not, at first, go all the way thru. Try to remove or collapse
the stud enough to release the manifold, then if the stud will not come out
of the bolck, heat the stud itself red and try again. The cam type or the
wedged&pin type of stud extractors work but I prefer the collet type, they
have specific collets for each thread spec as well as some serrated ones for
broken studs.
Good luck,
je
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Feb 21 2000 - 18:15:16 PST