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I agree with this. I work in a machine shop and you not believe the parts we
get with broken bolt extractors in them, and makes it a lot harder for us to
remove, and drives the price way up.
Bobby Joe Pendleton II
MVPA#17657
----- Original Message -----
From: "jonathon" <jemery@execpc.com>
To: "Military Vehicles List" <mil-veh@uller.skylee.com>
Sent: Sunday, 30 January, 2000 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] 230 manifolds stuck tight!
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>
> >Eastwood Company sells an extraction kit that consists of left hand drill
> bits and easy outs. In many instances drilling the hole reverse will cause
> the stud to back out, if not, try the easy out. Don't break the easy
> out--they are impossible to drill. If this fails take it to a machine
shop.
>
> Never never ever use an easy out or anything like it on a bolt or stud
that
> is siezed, they do not have the strength to release what the original
> fastener itself failed to do. You will just break it off and end up
comming
> to someone like me to get it out and most of the time I send you over to a
> die shop that uses an edm machine to 'burn' them out. That will cost you
a
> min of $50 and up!
>
> If the penetrating oil does not work and heating it red (well, orange
> actually) with a torch does not work then try drilling the stud out such
> that you can collapse the remaining wall of the stud. Since this is a
long
> stud I would not, at first, go all the way thru. Try to remove or
collapse
> the stud enough to release the manifold, then if the stud will not come
out
> of the bolck, heat the stud itself red and try again. The cam type or the
> wedged&pin type of stud extractors work but I prefer the collet type, they
> have specific collets for each thread spec as well as some serrated ones
for
> broken studs.
>
> Good luck,
>
> je
>
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Feb 21 2000 - 18:15:16 PST