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In a message dated 4/13/00 7:52:41 PM, davidcole@tk7.net writes:
>I think the key is don't start and stop an engine. Short trips and short
>duration runs really contaminate the oil.
I couldn't agree more. That's why I installed engine pre-lubers on my
turbocharged engines (non MV) to prevent much of the startup wear. If I
cannot prevent short trips, I take the vehicle out for an extended drive of
at least 30-40 minutes, preferably on the open road where the oil temperature
can reach normal operating range, once a week or so. Although this is not
ideal, it does help get rid of any accumulated water that condenses in the,
forever wet, Pacific Northwest.
>I try and start them up at least once every three months and run
>them for about a half an hour even if they go nowhere. They have to get
into the
>normal operating temp range and stay there for at least 15 minutes I believe.
I applaud your attempts but unless you are taking the vehicle out for a
drive, the engine oil will not reach full operating temperature and therefore
will not be able to shed accumulated water. The temperature gauge tells you
to heat in the coolant, usually near the hottest part of the engine, but it
does not tell the whole story. Oil in the oil pan, or tank in dry sump
engines, lags FAR behind the coolant temperature from idling the engine. Dry
sump engines are especially prone to accumulated water because the tank
itself helps keep the oil cooler due to its location, and the tank and lines
dissipating heat themselves.
In the case of Diesels, they absolutely MUST be driven to reach operating
temperature. I highly recommend that anyone with a Diesel to never start it
unless you plan to drive it, or absolutely need to move it. Diesels simply
don't make enough heat at idle to raise their temperature sufficiently no
matter how long you idle them. OK, perhaps if you had one in 120˚F ambient
temps, it might, but not in most of the world.
> The best thing is to run vehicles at least every month on the road to
really get
>the oil in the trans and diffs circulating.
I agree entirely, but if you cannot do this it is a far better idea to simply
hand turn the engine once in a while to let some of the valve springs to
relax a bit and NOT start the engine. Simply starting the engine and letting
it run for 15-30 minutes will actually increase the amount of water vapor in
the oil/crankcase, in addition to the additional wear of a cold start. This
is especially true in the areas with damper climates. It is quite possible
that persons living in the warmer and/or dryer climates will have no problems
with the 15 minute idle times but those in the wetter climates will
experience condensation with this practice.
Unless I must move my vehicles, I do not like to start the engines unless I
can DRIVE them for at least 30 minutes. The only exception might be my
Stalwart where the poor little engine works so hard that I'm sure the 5
gallons of engine oil will reach operating temperature in far less time and
very little distance.
BTW If you follow the marine practice of "fogging" your engine, and
stabilizing the fuel, etc., you will find an engine that starts and runs as
well as it did before you stored it.
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon May 01 2000 - 05:30:05 PDT