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I'd say a good "initial" setup would be about .014 (intake) and .018 (exhaust).
The hot clearances that you'll end up with will vary, due to several factors,
including:
- differences in valve alloy composition
- differing temperature of the block at the valve seat and valve guide locations
- differing amount of surface area of the valve face in contact with the valve
seat
The latter two items affect how fast heat is transferred out of the valve, which
has a direct effect on the temperature and thermal expansion of the valve.
It's best to set the valves hot. You can improve access to the adjusters by
removing the inside fender panel. A long, flexible "tappet wrench" is handy for
setting the adjusters while the engine is idling. Or, you could use a
stop-reset-start approach, just stopping the engine long enough to rotate the
crank to a position where the lifter is completely off the camshaft lobe, then
making the adjustment, then starting the engine again and running it for a minute
or two to make sure that it's warmed up for the next valve, then repeating the
process. This is actually pretty easy to do, especially if you've already marked
the spots on the crankshaft pulley.
By the way, changing the clearance settings should not affect your compression
readings at all, unless you happened to have taken the compression readings when
the engine was very hot and there was zero valve clearance, which is doubtful.
Alan
Lisa wrote:
> We continued to do
> this until all 6 cylinders were measured:
>
> 1) I.015 E.018 95/100 (compression readings)
> 2) I.011 E.017 85/95
> 3) I.016 E.018 90/105
> 4) I.015 E.016 95/110
> 5) I.014 E.018 70/90
> 6) I.014 E.013 45/60
>
> These readings are cold...the specs are for I.010 E.014
> hot. If these adjustments have any relation to compression,
> I am tempted to adjust the intake to .015 and the exhaust to
> .018. What do you think?
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon May 01 2000 - 05:30:05 PDT