Bob
Congratulations. I responded to your problems individually as best as I could below.
Dave Fillman
45 MB
---- you wrote:
> Hi,
> Ammeter must be hooked up backwards; it shows amps on the negative side just
> under the half-way mark, then if headlights are put on, goes down closer to
> center guage (please tell me its hooked up backwards).
Sounds like the wires are reversed on the ammeter.
> Steering; Tracks straight without pulling to either side, steers smoothly
> and easily without binding and the steering wheel only moves 2-3 inches
> before having an effect. This is all in the steering gear box as I didn't do
> anything to it to tighten it up. Everything else was replaced. Overall
> steering is WAY tighter than it was before. I would like to fine tune the
> toe in. Any "backyard mechanic" ways to check/adjust without specialized
> tools or taking it to an alignment shop?
Jack up the front end and adjust the lash on the steering box while checking for binding through the entire range of steering travel. The adjuster is a screw that is secured with a locknut on the drivers side of the steering box. Remove as much lash as you can without binding the steering box. The steering box is rebuildable and parts are readily available. You can make your own toe-in gage very easily. E-mail me for details if interested(long).
There does
> appear to be a small crack in the block, just under and forward of the
> distributor. It appears to be between #2 and #3 cylinders and is only
> seeping a very small amount of coolant. I plan to use judicious amounts of
> Stop-Leak. Any comments about the crack? Is it going to get worse? How
> difficult/expensive to repair? Should I look for a new engine?
What pressure radiator cap are you using. Try a lower psi cap. You can try a cap without any pressure, but this may lead to overheating. I have never tried stop leak, so I can't give a recommendation. The leak was possibly caused by freezing, so it should not get any worse. If you intend to run it on long trips, I would keep a close eye on the antifreeze level. A coolant recovery system will give you extra capacity, but is obviously not stock.
> Xfer case: Shifts positively and easily. Damn thing leaks like a sieve!
> Could it be that it is just overfull (it is up to the filler hole) and the
> leak/seepage/drips will eventually stop? If not, is there something I can
> add something to the fluid that will swell the seals? I just don't plan to
> pull it before winter.
The case is filled correctly. You can replace the front and rear yoke seals without pulling the transfer case. The original seals are leather and the yokes may have grooves worn into them also.
> Overall, I'm ecstatic! It runs and drives, despite the issues. There is some
> small detailing I need to do, such as install data plates and windsield
> studs, but its more or less ready.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Kelly
> 42 GPW
> North Royalton, Ohio
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