----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly, Robert" <Robert_Kelly@FCEINC.COM>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 6:16 PM
Subject: [MV] Vehicle storage and gasoline
Don't know much about jeeps, however, a petrol (gas) engine vehicle is much
the same of whatever flavour.
> I was just thinking about storage issues for my GPW, as it will likely be
> sitting for a little while this winter.
>
> Good/Bad/indifferent to jacking it up and supporting the vehicle with jack
> stands on the frame to relieve tension on wheels and springs?
>
Good idea if you can arrange it, also stops the tyres settling into flats,
deflate too, to a lower pressure but not flat.
> Should I burn off all the gas in my tank or fill it up and add some
gasoline
> preservative? If good to use a preservative, what works and is generally
> available at your friendly neighborhood parts store, as opposed to some
mail
> order stuff?
>
Don't know about US petrol (gas) formulation, we have little trouble here
with fuel in a tank over a year or two but it does eventually loose its
volatility, it is noticeable though that fuel stabilisers are often
mentioned from the US. Preferably have the tank absolutely full to minimise
any condensation hassles. Preferably drain the carb float chamber as this
stuff in good contact with the air will go off and possibly varnish the
jets.
> Any battery issues? Remove and set aside? Change oil now or wait till
> beginning of next season?
>
Vehicle batteries are better worked, for vehicle use they are designed too
give the short and huge start current, unlike "leisure batteries" which are
made to accept standing for long periods or be left semi-charged. Vehicle
batteries will eventually sulphate the plates without the normal, regular
high current start demand which actually scrubs the plates of contamination,
at least give it a trickle charge for a few hours monthly. I have seen some
intelligent US made battery maintainers that actually give the battery a 75A
load for some 20 secs monthly and then trickle it back up again as and when
needed.
Best change the oil _immediately_ before storage so there is no acid and/or
water contaminated oil in the sump (oil pan), if you run it, it must get
thoroughly hot to dispel any start-up and condensation contamination in the
oil, this is difficult to achieve without driving the vehicle.
If un-run, take the plugs out, put a desert spoon of fresh engine oil in
each cylinder and with a cloth over the plug holes to catch any splatter,
give it a couple of quick whizzes on the starter. Then put the plugs back
in and tape a heavy gauge poly bag over the exhaust tail pipe to seal it.
If possible _hand-crank_ the engine several turns _slowly_ every month or so
to keep the oil distributed and ensure you stop with the crank in a
different position by 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns so the same valve springs don't
sit compressed all the time.
> Any other ideas about storing the vehicle so that it will look and run
just
> as good as it does right now? The vehicle is garaged.
>
If garaged cover with a breathable dust sheet. On re-start, hand prime the
carb if possible and/or crank it with the plugs out to clear any excess oil
and get the oil pump primed, expect it to smoke a bit as it clears the added
cylinder oil and keep the revs to an absolute minimum for a minute or so
while the oil system re-establishes.
Richard
Southampton - England
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Wed Nov 01 2000 - 21:37:41 PST