Hi John, (& List)
Thanks for taking the time to reply to my post. In reading your reply I
need to ask if you had a chance to look at the photos on the web
site? The photos should help clarify some of the issues you
raise. http://www.surplustrucks.com/wc53fs/index.htm
You are right about the window mechanisms. They work, gears aren't
stripped, but they should be taken apart, greased, and the window channels
probably all need to be re-done.
The speedometer is original. I'm confident the volt meter is as
well. Temp doesn't look right, oil and fuel are probably original (they
match my other WC53).
The door information you provide is all great. Thanks for that, I've seen
what you are going through with the doors on yours. I really don't think
the rust is as bad on this unit as you are dealing with. Again, take a
look at the photos.
I'm glad you're fabricating the bottom of the battery box. I'll probably
need one for the unit I'm keeping as well.
Back side access to the upper/lower body seam is difficult. If you have
the ability and/or means a metal on metal repair is best, but if the
outside was repaired with bondo it should prevent moisture from getting
inside and stop future rust problems. My trucks also live indoors in a
dry climate, so re-appearance of rust usually isn't an issue for me.
My last comment on the roof channels needs some clarification if you are
not looking at the photos. This is the channel where the roof insert goes
in. Not the front seam of the cab or the gutters over the doors (these
are fine). I did buff these areas with a right angle grinder and fine
grey buffing wheel which removed most scale and rust. I belive there is
plenty of good channel left to replace the insert, but some re-enforcing
may be needed in the two corners mentioned in my original post. the
photos should help prospective buyers evaluate this for
themselves. http://www.surplustrucks.com/wc53fs/index.htm
Thanks again for your input John, and I look forward to seeing your WC53's
when complete.
Chris Davis
MVPA# 20000
Lake Forest, CA
714 936 9698
>> >The window mechanisms will probably need rebuilding at some point. Gauges
>>are getting expensive. John Bizal is selling speedometers for $285.00. The
>>heater may have been added, but was not put on at the factory if it was an
>>Army Truck.
>> >Top original (I removed the old wood and fabric insert, but nothing has
>> >ever been welded, bolted, or screwed on to the top of the truck to replace
>> >it.)
>> >5 combat rims with two sets of original snow chains
>> >Documented military history
>> >It has been stripped to bare metal and primed. Ready for your choice of
>> >paint schemes.
>>
>>These combat rims are going to be next on the rare list. The post war power
>>wagon guys like them, and they are hard to get. Top replacement is not very
>>difficult on these, as long as what you start with for base metal is not too
>>rotted.
>>
>> >Problems:
>> >The driver's side door sags and won't line up to latch right. The bottom
>> >hinge mount point on the door itself has cracked and will need to be
welded
>> >and/or reinforced to properly support the door. While you can see the rust
>>Both mine have this problem, and it is not a one day fix. The only way to
>>do it properly is to build new sheetmetal, and re-rivet the door hinge back
>>onto the door. Not easy.
>> >through on the inside base of the door, I think the problem is metal
>> >fatigue, not rust related.
>>
>>Actually, it probably is rusty inside the door. Dodge painted only the
>>exterior surfaces of the metal. The insides of the doors and window boxes
>>are un-painted.
>> >
>> >Passenger side door also has some rust at the base. Not bad, again, take a
>> >look at the photos on the web site.
>> >
>> >While on the subject of rust, we might as well cover it all. The bottom of
>> >the battery box is shot. The section of the body just ahead of the battery
>> >box and behind the passenger door will also need patching.
>>
>>I make new battery trays for this vehicle. Price is $30.00 plus shipping.
>>Patching the other stuff is not too bad.
>> >The seam between the top and bottom body sections on both sides has some
>> >pitting in it. (longer on the passenger than driver side) Easy bondo or
I'd
>> >imagine even lead fill, although I have no lead experience.
>>This is a very difficult problem to fix properly. I have spent almost 150
>>hours working on mine, and it still is not done properly and needs more
>>work. Of course, I am replacing metal with metal, not bondo. The space to
>>work on this is very carmped, and you will need to remove the window boxes
>>when you work on it. I think when I do my next Carryall, I will completely
>>dissassemble the body before rebuilding it. All the bad spots on the truck
>>are very difficult to work on- access is terrible.
>>
>> >Passenger side corners, front and back of the roof channel will need some
>> >patching as well.
>>
>>This is ominous. It means you may find more rust. If it was sandblasted
>>well, and then painted, you should be okay. But expect to find more.
>
>
>
Chris Davis
MVPA# 20000
Lake Forest, CA
42 GPW Script
66 M274A2 Mule
42 WC53 Carryall (x3)
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