Glenn
With respect to Gordon, it depends where the crack is. The block usually
cracks in the region of the distributer drive housing.
If the crack is below the drive housing and you can see the water exiting
from the outside, you can groove it with a hand grinder and patch it with
fibreglass. This will provide a pretty permanent repair.
If the crack is above the drive orifice or worse still somewhere inside the
shaft housing, in my opinion the block is scrap. I know this remark will
bring a blizzard of replies from people who have successfully stitch welded
or used Wonderweld but in my opinion once you have the problem and use one
of these fixes, you are driving the jeep with a sword of damocles hanging
over your head waiting for that miserable morning when, on a long trip, you
dip the oil and find Mayonaise on the end of the dipstick! I shall be
interested to see if Gordon's fix works at all and if so for how long.
Less frequently, blocks also crack between the cylinders or round the
cylinder head stud holes (caused by over tightening). In this case, some
cracks can be stitch welded and remachined while others send the block to
the scrapyard. You have to show it to the experts.
Over the years we have purchased several Jeeps with repaired blocks which
fail in the hands of our purchaser, thus landing us in expensive gurantee
work. In this case it's my practice to put a sledgehammer through the side
to prevent some enthusuiast from 'rescuing' the faulty block at the scrap
yard and passing his bodged repair onto someone else.
We have new unused blocks for £600 and guaranteed seconhand ones from £300
Cheers. Mike S. RR Services Ltd. UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn" <glenntaylor@hotpop.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 9:24 PM
Subject: [MV] Cracked MB Block - any suggestions ?
> Hi all
> New to list - '42 MB owner since 1987
> It has always lost a little water. Then it started getting water in the
> oil - not much, but oily emulsion on the dipstick.
> Changed the head gasket 3 times in 3 years. Didn't fix the problem.
Couldn't
> see anything wrong with the head/gasket/block surfaces.
> Recently I drained the sump for the annual oil change. The first thing to
> come out was a litre of water !!
> Ouch !!.
> Are there any sealer compounds worth trying or is it a strip down and
stitch
> (or weld ?) job ?
>
> Any advice appreciated.
> Glenn (UK)
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Webster <jimweb@simonides.org>
> To: Military Vehicles Mailing List <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 9:09 PM
> Subject: [MV] [Fwd: Can you assist]
>
>
> > Anyone help this guy out?
> >
> > -------- Original Message --------
> > Subject: Can you assist
> > Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:12:52 +0100
> > From: Evers Pearce <EPearce@rycote.ac.uk>
> > To: "'JEDed@simonides.prestel.co.uk'" <JEDed@simonides.prestel.co.uk>
> >
> > Would you have any information on forces serving in Greece 63 onwards. I
> > have just found a 63 Willys m151 jeep from Greece and would be
> > interested to know if it was Greek Army, US Personnell, NATO or UN.
> >
> > In addition do you have any information on the various colour otions
> > used for jeeps, eg olive drab, carac, desert, arctic etc, but what are
> > paints and colourings and markings? Is there a good source of such
> > information?
> >
> > Thank you
> >
> > Evers
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > TTFN
> > Jim
> > ICQ: 58721472 [usually online 1900-2000 UK Time]
> > ****************************************************
> > http://www.simonides.org The Simonides Group
> > Simply the LARGEST military history & archaeology site on the web
> > ****************************************************
> > Now offering free webspace for anyone who wants to
> > set up a site with a historical military connection.
> >
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> > museums
> > ****************************************************
> >
> >
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>
>
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