Well all I know at present is that the leak must be internal. There are no
external signs.
It will be simple enough to check Gordon's suggestion about the distributor
tube.
If that's where the leak is then I have a new problem :-)
- You (Mike) seem to be at odds with Gordon regarding the viability of a
repair.
Given the ease of access I think it's worth a try at least. I have access to
full engineering facilities to make and fit a sleeve.
I am all for preserving old bits including blocks. Happy to suffer a
breakdown - all part of the fun !
I can understand that it's not such a good idea for a business like yours
Mike (Stallwood ? am I right ? ) You don't want any comebacks if you can
help it. That's how it should be.
In the end I may have to buy a block and rebuild the engine - who knows.
To take up Todds point, I live in the UK, so can't use your suppliers - but
thanks anyway for pointing out that things are improving all the time. :)
I'll make some enquiries here in the UK Midlands - plenty of engine bods
hereabouts.
Ever hopeful
Many thanks to all for your suggestions.
Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike S <tankcity@globalnet.co.uk>
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>; Glenn
<glenntaylor@hotpop.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] Cracked MB Block - any suggestions ?
> Glenn
>
> With respect to Gordon, it depends where the crack is. The block usually
> cracks in the region of the distributer drive housing.
>
> If the crack is below the drive housing and you can see the water exiting
> from the outside, you can groove it with a hand grinder and patch it with
> fibreglass. This will provide a pretty permanent repair.
>
> If the crack is above the drive orifice or worse still somewhere inside
the
> shaft housing, in my opinion the block is scrap. I know this remark will
> bring a blizzard of replies from people who have successfully stitch
welded
> or used Wonderweld but in my opinion once you have the problem and use one
> of these fixes, you are driving the jeep with a sword of damocles hanging
> over your head waiting for that miserable morning when, on a long trip,
you
> dip the oil and find Mayonaise on the end of the dipstick! I shall be
> interested to see if Gordon's fix works at all and if so for how long.
>
> Less frequently, blocks also crack between the cylinders or round the
> cylinder head stud holes (caused by over tightening). In this case, some
> cracks can be stitch welded and remachined while others send the block to
> the scrapyard. You have to show it to the experts.
>
> Over the years we have purchased several Jeeps with repaired blocks which
> fail in the hands of our purchaser, thus landing us in expensive gurantee
> work. In this case it's my practice to put a sledgehammer through the
side
> to prevent some enthusuiast from 'rescuing' the faulty block at the scrap
> yard and passing his bodged repair onto someone else.
>
> We have new unused blocks for £600 and guaranteed seconhand ones from £300
>
> Cheers. Mike S. RR Services Ltd. UK
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glenn" <glenntaylor@hotpop.com>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 9:24 PM
> Subject: [MV] Cracked MB Block - any suggestions ?
>
>
> > Hi all
> > New to list - '42 MB owner since 1987
> > It has always lost a little water. Then it started getting water in the
> > oil - not much, but oily emulsion on the dipstick.
> > Changed the head gasket 3 times in 3 years. Didn't fix the problem.
> Couldn't
> > see anything wrong with the head/gasket/block surfaces.
> > Recently I drained the sump for the annual oil change. The first thing
to
> > come out was a litre of water !!
> > Ouch !!.
> > Are there any sealer compounds worth trying or is it a strip down and
> stitch
> > (or weld ?) job ?
> >
> > Any advice appreciated.
> > Glenn (UK)
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jim Webster <jimweb@simonides.org>
> > To: Military Vehicles Mailing List <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 9:09 PM
> > Subject: [MV] [Fwd: Can you assist]
> >
> >
> > > Anyone help this guy out?
> > >
> > > -------- Original Message --------
> > > Subject: Can you assist
> > > Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:12:52 +0100
> > > From: Evers Pearce <EPearce@rycote.ac.uk>
> > > To: "'JEDed@simonides.prestel.co.uk'" <JEDed@simonides.prestel.co.uk>
> > >
> > > Would you have any information on forces serving in Greece 63 onwards.
I
> > > have just found a 63 Willys m151 jeep from Greece and would be
> > > interested to know if it was Greek Army, US Personnell, NATO or UN.
> > >
> > > In addition do you have any information on the various colour otions
> > > used for jeeps, eg olive drab, carac, desert, arctic etc, but what are
> > > paints and colourings and markings? Is there a good source of such
> > > information?
> > >
> > > Thank you
> > >
> > > Evers
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > TTFN
> > > Jim
> > > ICQ: 58721472 [usually online 1900-2000 UK Time]
> > > ****************************************************
> > > http://www.simonides.org The Simonides Group
> > > Simply the LARGEST military history & archaeology site on the web
> > > ****************************************************
> > > Now offering free webspace for anyone who wants to
> > > set up a site with a historical military connection.
> > >
> > > Free mastering for veterans organisations and military
> > > museums
> > > ****************************************************
> > >
> > >
> > > ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
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> > > To switch to the DIGEST mode, send e-mail to
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> >
> >
> > ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
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<mil-veh-digest@mil-veh.org>
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> >
> >
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Jun 05 2001 - 23:18:33 PDT