I've received a number of good responses to the problems I'm having with
the primer paint. I wanted to share some of them with the group in general.
From Darryl:
"On the spitting spray gun: did you strain the paint, before putting it in
the gun? I've found that some primers stay a bit lumpy. This will drive you
crazy!"
Strained the primer last night. It helped, but didn't make a big difference.
From Brandon:
"Water (or icing) from the humidity/temperature combination we've been
having lately?"
I am running a water separator ahead of the gun, so I had dismissed this
possibility until finding moister in the tip last night. No luck finding
another separator during lunch today.
From John Seidts:
"My painter said that his mix for the epoxy is now two to one, not one to
one as it was before. I'd talk to a body shop and ask them. They are better
at giving you information than the paint stores are sometimes."
From Tom Campbell:
"Chris, try a slower drying thinning agent. I (in hot humid Alabama) often
use xelon for thinning the Gilespie paint, but in the hottest part of
summer, I have to go to plain old "paint thinner" or mineral spirits. Here
(during the summer) the primer and the paint will "spit" like you're
talking about when it gets too hot. My paint man says the droplets are
drying before they get to the surface to be painted. Don't know if that's
your problem or not. Just my 2 cents worth. I --- UNDERSTAND --- about the
dismay of seeing your hard work end up yucky looking with a rough finish."
From David Doyle:
"Are you sure that you are using the correct type of reducer for the
temperature?"
Despite the paint guy's assurances that I have the correct reducer and
ratio (one to one), I think I'm going to take John, Tom, and David's advice
and try using a little less reducer. It's not that warm in the garage at
night, but maybe John's right and the paint guy isn't up to date on his ratios.
Well see. Thanks for the input everyone!
Chris Davis
MVPA# 20000
Lake Forest, CA
'42 WC53 Carryall
'66 M274A2 Mule
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