I fabricate a General Officers plate holder (shorter in length than a
Standard US License Plate) out of 1/2" angle iron mounted at an angle so it
forms a slot, OR curtain rod cut and gas welded (it's so thin) has a GOOD
slot in it. I then fabricate a base bracket that bends and twists matching
the lines of the mounting location to attach to an existing bumper, fender,
or grill bolt hole (I never drill NEW holes in a restored vehicle, that's
sacrilege!!!)
Now I can display a unit plate, General Officers "Star" plate, (And I only
do that When I have a General on board...) VFW plate, Purple Heart Assn
Plate, National Park symbol Plate, etc. Depending on the event/parade we
are attending and rank/organization of the VIP riding in the vehicle.
(Side note: Almost had the President at one trip, and you TRY getting the
symbol for the plate!!! It's really close hold, and Hollywood doesn't even
use the authentic seal in movies, as it's illegal!)
To make the license plate fit the smaller plate holder, I cut a plate to fit
the holder, drill four mounting holes to match the Civy license plate, then
insert bolts with small spacers (or larger nuts) to stand the plate outside
of the VIP frame. Simply drop the plate in when driving to/ from event, and
remove into the glovebox or under the seat for the event. Plate frame
Painted to match the vehicle, looks military from ALL aspects. Except for a
Deuce driving a General around is sort of .....well....NOT a normal task for
that military vehicle. However, it keeps the "military" spirit, and MAY
actually have been done for a Pass-in-Review at some point in the military
with another large vehicle in a transportation company or change of Command,
etc.
As to the back license, on my 3/4T Command Car, I have a pivoting arm ("L"
shaped with a twist in the bracket) that drops down, mounting the plate.
This can be pushed UP toward the vehicle to hide it for shows and photo's as
needed. So far friction has kept it up, but I could add a bungee, etc. if
needed. Would simply run a wire down the bracket from the taillight with a
"Y" connector out of the running light to add a visible light if it were
required (Antiques don't require it in Virginia) (Another Side note: we
can also register the Bumper # with DMV (Once) if we wanted to, but I
change them sometimes to reflect the Command borrowing the vehicle for
Pass-in-Review, etc.)
On my WWII GPW I made a replacement spare tire plate with a long threaded
stud pointing out the rear. This I bolt on, then add a LARGE round spare
tire cover (Cheap Pressed Wood end table at the hardware store works, but
chips the edges after a few years, so metal is likely best) the dimension of
the metal rim. To this I've Painted to match the vehicle, screwed in the
License plate, added a vehicle description and date of vehicle and small
"Ford " Logo from a custom license plate to let everyone know "Ford " made
them, not just Willys.
Rear plate removes for pictures or reenactments as needed with a large
center wingnut or 9/16 inch wrench if a nut is used.
Regards A. Winget
Hampton, Va.
Web site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jhooah/index.html
PS: Anyone know of a derelict WWI model 1917 Tank hull (the little two
seater, 7mph model) I can rebuild? Anything from blown up to running (other
than Hayes's tanks...)
Sale / Trade:
Still have a 1942 WWII German 105mm M18 Howitzer ( Happens to have come from
Sweden after the war Erik ! ) for sale. $14K
And a Nice 1942 US 57mm AT gun for $8500. (even has small shrapnel (not
bullet) dent in shield from action)
Would trade either gun for a US Pack 75mm gun or a decent restorable DUKW
!!!! (My DUKW is beyond hope other than Static Display)
WAW
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