From: Neil E. Amrhein (neil@compu-powr.com)
Date: Mon Feb 25 2002 - 06:13:52 PST
List,
Joe's original post made me think about something. What is the
recommended position to leave the shutoff handle. I have seen people push
them in after the truck stops, but I prefer to leave it pulled out. Is there
any harm in this?
Also, if the truck sits awhile, and I have left the handle out (off),
will the run-away condition be of any concern for me? Or will whatever is
getting stuck on the other trucks, be stuck in the "off" position on my
truck? Thus preventing starting altogether?
I don't really plan to leave my truck sit for any great length of time,
but you never know, so I thought I'd ask.
--Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <DDoyle9570@aol.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] multifuel injector problem
> In a message dated 2/24/02 8:35:10 AM Central Daylight Time,
> MVTrucker@aol.com writes:
>
> << My M35A2 has been sitting for quite a while and will not start. I found
> that
> the
> linkage on the side of the injector was stuck in the off position >>
>
> Joe,
> I may be able to help you with this....a copy of TM 9-2910-226-34 Pump,
Fuel
> metering and Distributing is handy too.
> I will start at the beginning, just so I (hopefully) won't omit anything.
> In the center of the top of the hydraulic head of the pump is a plug, it
is
> surrounded by the fuel distribution lines. Remove the plug. Stand a soft
> wood stick up in the hole, and turn engine over while watching stick. The
> stick should hop and down, but since you are having a no start condition,
it
> probably won't (If it does, we have other issues to discuss). Remove
stick,
> and spray solvent and penetrant in this hole.
> Take out two screws and remove the engine shut off cover and gasket.
Verify
> that the cable from it to handle on dash moves freely.
> The remove the two screws you have just exposed that hold on the Control
Unit
> Retainer (a sorta U-shaped bracket)...if I remember correctly these screws
> are safety wired.
> Remove the Control Unit Retainer, then slide out the fuel control unit
> assembly. Take care that the small, precisely made, friction fit, T
shaped
> piece of metal on the inner end of the shaft doesn't get lost. It is the
> plunger sleeve pin, and that is what all this is about.
> Apply generous amounts of solvent, penetrating oil, etc., to make sure all
> these pieces are free to move. Once free, spray with lube.
> Reassemble fuel control unit into injection pump, being sure to orient the
> plunger sleeve pin properly, it should all slide together smoothly and
> precisely, like reassembling a gun. If you think you need to force
> something, then you have put something together wrong.
> Now, using a brass or similar punch, as close in size to the hole on top
of
> hydraulic head, rap the plunger a time or two.
> Repeat test with stick.
> You may have to repeat the penetrating oil/solvent/pecking/stick test
process
> several times before the plunger moves freely.
> The above steps 90% of the time solves this problem. Occasionally however
> the delivery valve sticks. This is access by removing a plug in the SIDE
of
> the hydraulic head. Usually this plug is funny looking (12-16 points),
older
> engines this plug is hex shaped.
> Beware, with the way the pump is oriented in the truck, the delivery valve
> and its spring will want to fall out onto the ground, chassis,
> whereever....this would not be good as these delivery valves are precisely
> matched to the hydraulic heads. So you won't replace just this tiny
valve,
> but rather the entire, expensive hydraulic head.
> Using aerosol solvent/penetrating oil, make sure that the delivery valve
is
> not sticking.
> Reassemble all the things we have discussed.
> Truck should now start. However, any time I have fooled with the
injection
> pump, or a truck that has not been started in a while, I prefer to remove
the
> air intake mushroom, and have a helper stand by with steel plate or piece
of
> plywood to shut off air flow in the event the engine tries to run away, or
> the shut off won't shut down.
> Hope this helps,
> David Doyle
>
>
> copyright 2002, David Doyle
>
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