From: Jeepstuf@aol.com
Date: Thu Aug 22 2002 - 07:00:04 PDT
1) There are products that "convert" the rust allowing you to paint over them
But, they leave a rough surface, can't be sanded and only protect the back
side if you treat it also. Rustoleum is fine for keeping water off of steel
but it has to be fairly thick and it's not a long term product like epoxy. it
also may not work well with the top coat that you choose. Wire brushing is
fine for light surface rust but if it leaves little "chunks" of rust in the
pits then rust will be back quick. You'll have to chip out those chunks and
wire brush again. At that point I'd use a product like Metal Prep
(follow directions and DON'T USE in enclosed spaces as it can continue to eat
the metal later; too difficult to nuetralize)
2)Lead was the first "bondo" or plastic filler. It isn't as flexible as
plastic filler though.Welding in steel is best (you'll be surprised how easy
mig welding is) and it doesn't have to be pretty; as long as it doesn't flex,
you can smooth it with plastic filler or eaven better, "LabMetal" or Metal
Fill" which is resin with aluminum powder. It's hard and WATER PROOF unlike
plastic filler. Remember to treat the back side with, at a minimum, with some
kind of corrosion protection product.
3)as long as you're just using primers and flat or semigloss paints, you
don't need to invest big money in paint guns. If you haven't tried a "gravity
feed" type you might like the feel better and for some, it's easier to not
bang the cup into your work ' cause it's in your field of vision. If your the
meticulous type that will NEVER let paint even start to set up in your gun,
then high quality guns may be worth it but the first time hardened material
starts to build up in the gun it's no better than the cheap disposable kind.
Professionals have gun cleaner cabinets that wash internally and keep a spray
going that will soak a gun clean. That's hard to do at home.
If you're not having much luck with cheap guns, pardon me for asking but did
you spend some time getting used to how the controls work and making sure all
the packings were tight? It does take a bit of practice. You don't have to
spray actual paint to experiment with the fan pattern; just use some wash-out
thinner. You should be comfortable with the 2 main settings so that as you
paint, you can add or reduce material and changethe fan pattern so that
you're not wasting material by blowing it past the object of your restorative
desires.
(when I use all caps it just means think about those words
I'mlongwindedenoughanddon'twanttoaddmoresentences!)
butI'll be glad to go into more detail if asked.
Later, Wes Gladhart
MVPA13003
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