From: Julian Burke (julianb@esper.com)
Date: Thu Aug 22 2002 - 15:38:44 PDT
Well, I see that it's time to get out my "Wash & Wear" answers to this SAME
question that is always asked EVERY 5-6 weeks!! Do people ever read this
list??!! Only NAPA has a few items in this area that can be used. AutoZone
and Advance do not. These glow plugs are not available through normal
channels. Do away with the resistor. Brian, If you have a specific
question, email me directly and I will help but maybe this info will help
alot. Julian Burke
> List, I have a M1009 that turns over but will not start. It started
> yesterday time after time, tried it today and it just spins over. Its
> getting fuel to the injectors. I have the testing procedure for the
glowplug
> system I wanted to know where I can buy the parts like glowplugs,glowplug
> relay,relay resister,glowplug controller. Do advance or autozone carry the
> same parts? What is the most common part to go bad? Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. Brian
>
>Here are some postings I did that may help. It is so hot here that I don't
like to spend much time in front of my computer.
"Why did GM take the glow plug power off the voltage dropping resistor? Why
not just take 12 vdc off the normal vehicle wiring?"
Well, Let me get out my "wash and wear" answer for this as I have written
many articles on this very subject and about 3 weeks later it is asked
again!
GM didn't take the wire off of the resistor, it is an "in shop" modification
that enhances starting the vehicle through stability of the 12 volts to the
glowplug network. The resistor is to drop the 24 volts to 12 volts to the
glow plugs. The glow plugs use 12 Volts and 24 would be too much across
them. Now, here is why the resistor is used: All M series vehicles use a
NATO slave plug to jump/slave another vehicle. If the batteries are stone
dead in a CUCV, 24 volts will still feed the glow plug circuit and it will
start when slaved in its' original unmodified condition. However, this
should be noted that through the modification the vehicle will start easier
BUT if your CUCV batteries are stone dead when slaved, you will NOT get 12
volts to the glow plug circuit because the dead batteries will drop the
entire 24 volts to the center of the two batteries until they charge. This
must be kept in mind when jumping off the vehicle with the modification as
it will not start through the slave recepticle until the batteries charge up
to some degree. The modification is to remove the red wire from the
output of the glowbar resistor and connect it directly to the 12 volt buss
directly above the glowplug relay. The terminal fits perfectly and the wire
is the right length which makes a nice job. I hope this answers this
question again. Your jeep nut, Julian Burke
> > Brothers, can anyone tell me where the glow plug controller is located
on:
> > 85 M1009? Also, best place to get one, part #? thanks...
> Here are four items that will be very useful to know in restoring your
CUCV.
> I've already done the footwork, cost and you won't have to!
>
>
> 2. BURGUNDY SPRAY PAINT FOR THE DASHPAD. When a new dash is ordered from
> Chevrolet (about $183 body shop price), it comes gray in color. To paint
is
> and make it look perfect, your local automotive paint suppliers should
have
> this on their "generic" rack. It is a regular size 13 oz. vinyl & plastic
> spray manufactured by SEM products of Charlotte, NC. The color is
Burgundy
> and the stock number is 15063. The contents of the can is little more
than
> enough to do the entire dash and is a perfect match! It will "make" the
> interior of your unit! Cost is about $8-9. At this point, I recommend
that
> you buy a new black insert from Chevrolet and is about $11 body shop
price.
> Original insert is cut for the NBC bracket and unless you want that
bracket,
> DON'T cut the new black insert and your CUCV will look great! Little
emblem
> is about $5.60. Don't forget to wipe down the dash pad with alcohol
before
> painting.
>
> 3. GLOW PLUG TEMPERATURE SENSOR. Here is a real goodie piece of info.
The
> number in your 34P lists the chevy part number but it has been upgraded to
> this GM stock number: 10045847. Comes with threadseal, shrink splice and
> little pigtail harness to splice into the black/yellow wires to upgrade
the
> old plug to fit on the new glow plug sensor. White wires on it are way
to
> long so cut some off so they won't be dangling over top of engine. Cost
is
> about $22 body shop price. Works great and don't use the old style
sensor.
>
> 4. GLOW PLUG RELAY. Back to NAPA again. It is a "Ford" style relay and
> stock number is: GPR 109. This relay is a round, brown one and is a
> suitable replacement. Cost is about $17 and its' footprint will match the
> two screws to mount it even though they don't look like they will! You
will
> also have to find or buy new brass nuts and washers for the electric
hookup
> to it as none come with it. The ones from the old relay will not match
it.
> (probably metric) If your old GPR looks like a "dimmer switch"
(bakelite),
> replace it. If it isn't bad, it soon WILL be! The military upgraded this
> one; is a little silver can, (looks like a Ford type starter solenoid)
and
> is a very good one to use. If one isn't available, using the one I found
is
> satisfactory and is heavy duty waterproof.
>
> I have been wanting to post this for some time and hope this helps all
CUCV
> enthusiasts. Your military NUT in general, Julian Burke
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