From: Stu Ellis (stuellis@attbi.com)
Date: Sun Aug 25 2002 - 19:24:45 PDT
I did the same to mine and it has worked great for 3 years !
Stu
Southern New Hampshire, USA
"Live Free Or Die"
MVPA #14790 MVMVC
1967 M151A1 Army Jeep
1964 M416 1/4 Ton Trailer
1986 M1009 CUCV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hight" <slhight@qwest.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 glowplug system parts?
> Check to see that you are getting power to the glow plugs when trying to
> start. I bypassed the glow plug controller altogether and I use a
> pushbutton switch on the inside to activate the glow plugs when needed.
> Load is taken off the switch using a ford starter solenoid. And those
> $100.00 glow plug controllers (on my 82 and 84) are no longer needed.
>
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie" <seacoastsurplus@worldnet.att.net>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 5:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 glowplug system parts?
>
>
> > The AC Delco 13G GLOW PLUGS are available here
> > in Boston area in any good auto parts store
> >
> > SO, YES, they are still available
> >
> > I have all the other parts for sale
> > and can pickup glowplugs at cost if buying other stuff
> > Brian
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> >
> >
> > At 06:38 PM 8/22/02, you wrote:
> > >Well, I see that it's time to get out my "Wash & Wear" answers to this
> SAME
> > >question that is always asked EVERY 5-6 weeks!! Do people ever read
this
> > >list??!! Only NAPA has a few items in this area that can be used.
> AutoZone
> > >and Advance do not. These glow plugs are not available through normal
> > >channels. Do away with the resistor. Brian, If you have a specific
> > >question, email me directly and I will help but maybe this info will
help
> > >alot. Julian Burke
> > >
> > >
> > > > List, I have a M1009 that turns over but will not start. It started
> > > > yesterday time after time, tried it today and it just spins over.
Its
> > > > getting fuel to the injectors. I have the testing procedure for the
> > >glowplug
> > > > system I wanted to know where I can buy the parts like
> glowplugs,glowplug
> > > > relay,relay resister,glowplug controller. Do advance or autozone
carry
> the
> > > > same parts? What is the most common part to go bad? Any help would
be
> > > > greatly appreciated. Brian
> > > >
> > > >Here are some postings I did that may help. It is so hot here that I
> don't
> > >like to spend much time in front of my computer.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >"Why did GM take the glow plug power off the voltage dropping resistor?
> Why
> > >not just take 12 vdc off the normal vehicle wiring?"
> > >
> > >Well, Let me get out my "wash and wear" answer for this as I have
written
> > >many articles on this very subject and about 3 weeks later it is asked
> > >again!
> > >
> > >GM didn't take the wire off of the resistor, it is an "in shop"
> modification
> > >that enhances starting the vehicle through stability of the 12 volts to
> the
> > >glowplug network. The resistor is to drop the 24 volts to 12 volts to
> the
> > >glow plugs. The glow plugs use 12 Volts and 24 would be too much
across
> > >them. Now, here is why the resistor is used: All M series vehicles
use
> a
> > >NATO slave plug to jump/slave another vehicle. If the batteries are
> stone
> > >dead in a CUCV, 24 volts will still feed the glow plug circuit and it
> will
> > >start when slaved in its' original unmodified condition. However, this
> > >should be noted that through the modification the vehicle will start
> easier
> > >BUT if your CUCV batteries are stone dead when slaved, you will NOT get
> 12
> > >volts to the glow plug circuit because the dead batteries will drop the
> > >entire 24 volts to the center of the two batteries until they charge.
> This
> > >must be kept in mind when jumping off the vehicle with the modification
> as
> > >it will not start through the slave recepticle until the batteries
charge
> up
> > >to some degree. The modification is to remove the red wire from the
> > >output of the glowbar resistor and connect it directly to the 12 volt
> buss
> > >directly above the glowplug relay. The terminal fits perfectly and the
> wire
> > >is the right length which makes a nice job. I hope this answers this
> > >question again. Your jeep nut, Julian Burke
> > >
> > > > > Brothers, can anyone tell me where the glow plug controller is
> located
> > >on:
> > > > > 85 M1009? Also, best place to get one, part #? thanks...
> > >
> > >
> > > > Here are four items that will be very useful to know in restoring
your
> > >CUCV.
> > > > I've already done the footwork, cost and you won't have to!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > 2. BURGUNDY SPRAY PAINT FOR THE DASHPAD. When a new dash is
ordered
> from
> > > > Chevrolet (about $183 body shop price), it comes gray in color. To
> paint
> > >is
> > > > and make it look perfect, your local automotive paint suppliers
should
> > >have
> > > > this on their "generic" rack. It is a regular size 13 oz. vinyl &
> plastic
> > > > spray manufactured by SEM products of Charlotte, NC. The color is
> > >Burgundy
> > > > and the stock number is 15063. The contents of the can is little
more
> > >than
> > > > enough to do the entire dash and is a perfect match! It will "make"
> the
> > > > interior of your unit! Cost is about $8-9. At this point, I
> recommend
> > >that
> > > > you buy a new black insert from Chevrolet and is about $11 body shop
> > >price.
> > > > Original insert is cut for the NBC bracket and unless you want that
> > >bracket,
> > > > DON'T cut the new black insert and your CUCV will look great!
Little
> > >emblem
> > > > is about $5.60. Don't forget to wipe down the dash pad with alcohol
> > >before
> > > > painting.
> > > >
> > > > 3. GLOW PLUG TEMPERATURE SENSOR. Here is a real goodie piece of
> info.
> > >The
> > > > number in your 34P lists the chevy part number but it has been
> upgraded to
> > > > this GM stock number: 10045847. Comes with threadseal, shrink
splice
> and
> > > > little pigtail harness to splice into the black/yellow wires to
> upgrade
> > >the
> > > > old plug to fit on the new glow plug sensor. White wires on it are
> way
> > >to
> > > > long so cut some off so they won't be dangling over top of engine.
> Cost
> > >is
> > > > about $22 body shop price. Works great and don't use the old style
> > >sensor.
> > > >
> > > > 4. GLOW PLUG RELAY. Back to NAPA again. It is a "Ford" style
relay
> and
> > > > stock number is: GPR 109. This relay is a round, brown one and is
a
> > > > suitable replacement. Cost is about $17 and its' footprint will
match
> the
> > > > two screws to mount it even though they don't look like they will!
> You
> > >will
> > > > also have to find or buy new brass nuts and washers for the electric
> > >hookup
> > > > to it as none come with it. The ones from the old relay will not
> match
> > >it.
> > > > (probably metric) If your old GPR looks like a "dimmer switch"
> > >(bakelite),
> > > > replace it. If it isn't bad, it soon WILL be! The military
upgraded
> this
> > > > one; is a little silver can, (looks like a Ford type starter
> solenoid)
> > >and
> > > > is a very good one to use. If one isn't available, using the one I
> found
> > >is
> > > > satisfactory and is heavy duty waterproof.
> > > >
> > > > I have been wanting to post this for some time and hope this helps
all
> > >CUCV
> > > > enthusiasts. Your military NUT in general, Julian Burke
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
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> >
> >
>
>
>
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