From: jonathon (jemery@execpc.com)
Date: Sat Sep 21 2002 - 19:14:45 PDT
>this is one of the reasons to NEVER use tap extractors; they will only
>work if the broken stud/bolt is not stuck very hard anyway;
good rule of thumb: if the bolt or stud broke in torsion,meaning a siezed
thread, then an extractor/easy-out will not do any good, time to get out
the drill.
>.... applications of heat and some penetrating oils can well assist
>the mechanic; to PREVENT this next time, LIBERALLY apply ANTI-SEIZE
>compounds (hi-temp in exhaust areas, other high temp engine areas) to
>ALL HARDWARE; this will assist in easy removal when necessary. here's
>the rule: if the hardware does not require Loctite compounds, then it
>should ALWAYS be coated w/ anti-sieze lubricants. this comes from years
>of fabrication/assembly/disassembly in the hi-tech world.
Dito on the above. I'd only add that when trying to remove things, a liberal
application of Kroil does wonders also.
>my friends machine shop sometimes makes a living just removing broken
>hardware out of various parts - anything w/ a broken (left hand) tap
>extractor proved always the most difficult to repair, and eventually
>many had to go to the EDM'er to remove.
Common problem around here and it's usually more trouble than it is worth
for us. When someone comes in here with a broken easy-out, I just send them
down the street a die shop that burns them out, cost is often more than $50
per hole. You learn a lesson real quick at that rate.
>MAKE ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUNDS A NECESSARY ITEM ON YOUR BENCH;
Add to that Kroil !!!
later,
je
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