From: R. A. Moir aka RAM (cyclopsram@starband.net)
Date: Thu Nov 14 2002 - 03:36:52 PST
My TM 9-8022 says "The hand brake linkage must be adjusted when hand brake
lever reserve travel is less than one-half of ratchet range. To adjust,
block wheel to keep truck from moving. Release hand brake lever. Loosen
lock nut and jam nut on cable at brake shoe lever and/or hand brake lever.
Take up slack in cable by turning lock nut. Tighten jamnut firmly. Remove
blocks from wheel." You can adjust both ends !! I have new cables for
sale for $45 if you need one... The shoes and linings are the same as the 5
ton. Use the kroil before you change the oil....and only if the engine is
stuck...after it is broken free put in the new oil and filters and so forth
to flush out the rust and corruption. I also have Starters, a carb, some
cylinder liners, a crankshaft, distributor and so forth.. I use Walmart
Car Batteries in mine... a pair of the 657 cca units work fine.. or you can
put in a pair of group 31 from NAPA or get the 6TL from Interstate for about
a c note each... Happy motoring.. RAM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul A. Thomas" <bluewhale@jaxkneppers.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 21:29
Subject: [MV] Kroil Follow up and Brake Q
>
> I've ordered the regular Kroil and was wondering: for those of you who
> recommended placing some in each piston prior to trying to turn over/start
> the old gas engine how much would you put in each cylinder? A tablespoon?
A
> teaspoon? I'm going to go with draining and replacing the oil, and putting
> Kroil in the cylinders a couple of days before trying to start it.
>
> #2: I've got my emergency brake ( I mean Parking brake, tho the manual
> avoids such distinctions by simply calling it the 'hand brake' ) back
> together. This truck has the 'old' style handgrip which you pull up to
> parallel to the cab floor to engage it. It pulls tight ( I will have a
> friend pull it this weekend while I'm underneath to make sure the pads
> really are engaging ), however I've used all of the adjustment on the
> spline in the cab. I see the other end might have a bolt holding it to the
> activator lever on the drive train: assuming I can get tools on it is it
> proper / safe to tighten that end as well? TM 9-8022 does not address
this.
> Or was I seeing things? No adjustable nut up there on top of the activator
> assembly on the drive train?
>
> #3: Does anyone have a reference for a Bay Area or West Coast source for 4
> batteries? I'd like to replace the two 12 volt batteries in there now as
> they look like they came from Honda Civics.. or motorcycles <g>
>
> #4: This vehicle was modified about 1970 as far as I can tell. A member of
> the organization which tries to preserve fire fighting vehicles says it's
> not in his logs from the sole company out here which did such conversions
> and feels fairly strongly that the local county did the conversion
> themselves. The county employee who is responsible for such records failed
> to return phone calls for over a month, then when he actually answered his
> phone this week said 'oh, if it's THAT old we have no records on it'. The
> county fire department keeps all of its own records.
> Might anyone have a suggestion on any other ways to try to track some of
> the the history of this vehicle down?
>
>
> Thanks for the advice.
>
>
> Paul
> '53 REO M35 Fire Conversion
> '53 AEC Chevy 3/4 Ton
>
>
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