From: Fred Martin (mung@in-touch.net)
Date: Thu Jan 09 2003 - 07:38:02 PST
Paul....I used to use a signal tracer to find a bad component in a radio
circuit. With one of these....couldn't you inject a signal into the battery
circuits to trace them? Electronic Technicians can also comment on this. To
find out if the headlights are 12 or 24 volts....remove one and using jumper
cables and battery....see how bright it lights on 12....that'll tell you....if
it's dim....it's 24. Fred
"Paul A. Thomas" wrote:
> Thank you to all who made suggestions about the batteries. As Ken pointed
> out from one of the other photos at the site the system seems to be 12
> volt. This brings forth a wide range of questions <g>... I'm not sure
> where to begin:
>
> 1: The battery tray holds two and only two 6TL batteries. They fit
> well. TM 9-819 shows two batteries in this model truck, however with a
> bridging cable.. The TM's also say the system should be 24 volt. As it's
> not... I wonder how much had to be done to change the truck to 12 volt
> status? There is an extra Odometer bolted on the steering column, however
> I don't believe the electrical system interacts with it. Probably just
> added on because replacing or repairing the original would cost too much or
> could not be found. To change the truck over, I would think I would have
> to change the :
>
> lights
> horn
> voltage regulator
> generator/alternator
> gauges relating to current
>
> How about spark plugs? Distributor? Plug Cables?
>
> I now am guessing that one battery goes to the deuce, and one to the
> pumping engine ( which looks to be bigger than the REO's engine :} ).
>
> My primary purpose at this time is to move the truck safely. No brakes,
> however the parking brake works.. I want to be able to pull it out onto the
> back street, park it and allow someone to come in with a jeep and auger to
> drill holes for the retaining walls I am installing, at least the ones
> around the truck pit. For I be tired of using a 30 lb breaker bar to knock
> the clay/dirt loose and pulling it out of the hole with a small frying pan
> to get to 4' deep! ( ok, I'm whining here ) <g>
>
> So: might any of you wizzardly fixiters have an idea about the switches
> and levers on the dash? I have posted four photos which all start with '
> Electrical Q ' at
>
> http://www.paulathomas.com/images/
>
> I believe the master switch goes up... however the two ' ignition '
> switches... they both pull out about 1/4 inch. Should they be pulled out
> or pushed in to ... to start or to run the truck? Keep in mind there is a
> floor mounted starter kick pedal which is still connected to the trucks
> starter: the same as it was when built new.
>
> Any thoughts on how to get a light bulb to turn on? And why would somebody
> place two separate switches on the dash ( 3 feet apart ) which are labeled
> ' ignition ' ?
>
> Thanks for all of the help on getting her moving again!
>
> Paul
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.4 : Wed Apr 23 2003 - 13:24:57 PDT