From: Bill Kealey (cwkealey@charter.net)
Date: Fri Jan 16 2004 - 19:51:17 PST
Aaron,
About 27-28 years ago I worked at an automotive machine shop rebuilding
engines and other automotive parts. Though I wasn't there long enough to
become an expert, I did learn enough to become confident in my knowledge of
this size and type of engine.
I read what David Cole wrote and agree 100% with what he wrote and doubt it
could be writen clearer.
You will certainly have parts that are due for repair or replacement but
these are going to show some signs of trouble when you do what Dave states.
The only thing that I would caution you on is that you may want to consider
at least taking the head off and having it checked for cracks. HOWEVER, if
the engine has not been apart this probably is not an issue. If you do take
the head off for some reason I would definitely have the head checked for
cracks and warpage which is part of a rebuild/reconditioning job anyway.
The reason for my .02 is that when the head is removed it may twist or warp
and possibly crack if it has ever been run hot which of course you have no
way of knowing. But, if you leave the head bolted to the block and do not
intend to rebuild/recondition it then I would not remove the head or worry
about the head warping, twisting or cracking. Dave recommended running the
engine in an engine stand or the jeep. I agree and would tend to lean
towards the engine stand if the neighbors don't mind the loud noise and you
don't hook up a muffler. After running it to operating temp. you should
have a good idea if the engine has any cracks or warpage by examining the
oil and cooling systems afterwards for mixtures of same.
Also, from my personal experience with my engines (two so far) don't assume
that exhaust gasses in the water or sudden overheating is a major problem.
If the head has been removed and the old bolts reused you may have problems.
Both of mine did. The problem is that the bolts may not hold up when
re-torqued after removal. I don't know a thing about metalurgy but do know
that the bolts become weak after years and years of use. In fact one of my
engines actually bent enough in the middle during idle speed warmup when I
first put it in that it cracked the top of the radiator when the head gasket
opened a gap between the center two cyls. and water jacket. I removed the
head and took it to a local shop where it was checked for cracks and
warpage. No problem. The shop manager recommended that I replace the head
bolts and try again. Worked perfectly. I later damaged the engine through
my negligence and the used replacement engine was checked and also put back
together with old bolts. Same problem but stopped the engine before
damaging the radiator this time. Replaced the bolts with new and the
problem went away.
Hope that this is helpful in some way.
Bill K.
MVPA #24623
1954 USMC M38A1
1972 US Army M35A2 non-turbo w/winch
1985 USAF M105A2
> > Hi List,
> >
> > If you've been following my project, I've got an M38A1 with a lot of CJ5
> > parts in and a hunk of junk for an engine (it's a CJ5 engine with a
crack
> > and very poor compression). Anyhow, some civy nut job had a '53 A1 that
> > he was gutting out for a 12V conversion and a 350-Chevy. He put the
parts
> > on e-bay, and I won the engine. He claims it ran fine when he pulled it
> > out, however the fuel filter stopped working so he by-passed it with a
> > newer one. By the time he sold it on e-bay, it was sitting for about a
> > year.
> >
> > So, now it's in my garage and I've got a little bit of money. Before I
go
> > head and drop this into my jeep...
> >
> > Should I have this engine professionally rebuilt? Or am I safe giving it
> > a good cleaning, draining all the fluids, give it a flush (oil and anti-
> > freeze) replacing all the gaskets, etc, etc. Cost isn't too much of an
> > issue, but I'd much rather spend the money on something else if I didn't
> > have to. Like a new set of canvas seats and a summer top! The way I see
> > it, I could spend $100 on all the fluids and gaskets and might luck out
> > with a decent engine. Or, it might still need a rebuild and there goes
> > $1,500. However if I take it straight to the shop I'd spend the $1500
> > when the engine might not have needed it.
> >
> > I called M&M head in Hayward, CA (the same guys that the Archer Brothers
> > use) and they quoted $1,450! To me, that sounds like a decent price...
> > perhaps a bit on the high side?
> >
> > In any case, I'm sure some of you "list-ers" have experience about
> > engines sitting around for a while that I could really benefit from.
> >
> >
> > Aaron Horrocks
> > 1952 M38A1
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