From: Bruce Beattie (bruce@eecs.berkeley.edu)
Date: Sat Jan 17 2004 - 16:23:37 PST
I believe that if you order from these guys (see link below), you will get the
correct replacement
part. You can reference parts by their NSN. They cost a little more than
gmpartsdirect
but in this particular case it might pay to go this route. Obviously, you need
to verify
that they will get the isolated ground version, but I have found them to be
quite helpful.
Bruce MVPA 23824
http://www.impacauto.com/location.htm
chance wolf wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave" <gpw1942@verizon.net>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 7:23 AM
> Subject: [MV] Amperage of M1009 alternators
>
> > Can anyone tell me the amperage of the alternators on the M1009s? I have
> > the part number, but the GM dealer says he also needs to know the
> amperage.
> > Thanx.
>
> Most of the castings are stamped "100A", but they're actually rated 80A. At
> least according to my local parts folks. I think your dealer is actually
> thinking of the newer generation of alternators when he asks for the current
> rating, as AFAIK, that particular style alternator only ever came with the
> one choice of regulator and current rating.
>
> That brings me to something else. That casting/part number may or may not
> cross properly. GM in the USA might well still have the actual modified
> CUCV alternators in inventory, but you're more likely to find that the
> dealer will cross it over to something which looks identical - but isn't.
> This isn't a problem if you install the replacement on the Driver's side,
> but becomes a big problem if installing on the passenger side. The issue is
> one exterior stud and associated hardware on the original CUCV alternator
> which is isolated from the case (and therefore isolated from Ground), where
> the Off-the-Shelf 80A alternator in that style you're likely to find
> yourself handed will either not have the stud at all, or will have it
> grounded to the alternator casing. If you take your defunct alternator in
> with you to the dealer and visually compare it to the replacement, you'll
> easily see what I'm going on about (provided, of course, that the dealer
> doesn't manage to score an original CUCV one.)
>
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