From: Jim Newton (jnewton@laurel.com)
Date: Fri May 28 2004 - 00:32:04 PDT
Hi Don...
Muriatic acid (diluted hydrochloric acid) from your local Home Depot
or pool supply store will remove chrome (and also zinc, nickel,
copper, etc.) without attacking the steel.
I have left chrome parts and galvanized parts in muriatic acid
overnight and the acid does not attack the steel in my experience.
First, disassemble and degrease your parts. Degrease two or three
times and finish with non-residue brake cleaner spray.
Then attach wires to the parts loosely, and lower the parts into
muriatic acid straight out of the bottle outdoors in a plastic
container. It will give off fumes and generate heat, so be careful
and use all precautions indicated for acids and toxic fumes. Have
water nearby to wash down spills.
Agitate the container, and you will see the plating dissolve off. It
may take anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours, depending on the
composition and thickness of the plating.
After you are happy that the plating is all gone, fish the parts out
with wire and rinse in clear water, then dip in a solution of baking
soda, then clear water rinse again. Dry at 250 degrees in the oven
for 30 minutes, then let cool. You can degrease with metal prep or
brake cleaner...then DON"T TOUCH IT WITH YOUR SKIN! Now you're ready
for a good primer coat, then final paint with OD or flat black.
You'll have a solid refinish job at home.
As I mentioned, this works great for galvanized parts too...convert a
galvanized nut and bolt into a black one.
Instead of painting bare steel to get a black finish, consider using a
blueing chemical such as "Oxpho-Blue", available at gun shops and
Brownell's:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1072&title=OXPHO-BLUE
This stuff is really amazing. You strip the part down to bare steel,
then neutralize and rinse and degrease, then soak it in this liquid
and it will coat the part with a deep black oxide finish. Then you
rinse and wipe it with oil such as 3-in-1 or even motor oil and you're
set! I did these with a set of chrome locking lug nuts for the CUCV
and they look great in lusterless black.
Good luck!
>OK, I got Manual locking hubs installed today, Crome as all get out, Driving
>me nuts , My Son (who put them on, pollished them ) YUCK. well he did put
>em on for me !
>
>So light sandpaper and paint em black, like the old auto hubs ?
>
>Ideas ? whats a easy way to scuff the crome up so it will take the paint
>?
>Best paint Krylon ?
>
>
>And while I am at it, the radio antenna was painted Sand (desert storm) YUCK
>your not supposed to paint antenna , and green on sand give it a good
>contrast .
>
>So how would I remove the paint from a fiberglass antenna with out runing
>the antenna ?
>Sandpaper sound like a bad idea to me.
>
>
>Still looking for a drivers side seat, 1984, (would like a recliner if
>possible)
>Ideas ?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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--Jim "Ike" Newton
o 1984 M1007 CUCV Military Suburban 6.2 Liter (378 CID) Turbo-Diesel Engine 5/4 Ton Cargo Capacity, 4WD
o 1971 M35A2 Military Troop/Cargo Truck "Deuce and a Half" 478 CID Turbo-Diesel Multi-Fuel Engine Air Shift Front Axle 2 1/2 Ton Cargo Capacity, 6WD
See These Trucks at www.CUCV.NET Keyword Searching of 22,000 Electronic TMs at www.MILDOCS.com
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