From: Mike (michael@tsixroads.com)
Date: Wed Jan 19 2005 - 20:35:40 PST
I wouldn't consider myself an expert just semi knowledgeable. After spending much time with the TM's and replacing the voltage regulator with a used takeoff I managed to get mine to "just barely get by" in the stock configuration. Considering that you have 4 times the available power (two 200 amp 28 v alternators vs two 100 amp 14 v ones) it should be doing better. I know I wouldn't pay top dollar for a NOS voltage regulator unless I could get some really good testimonials that they really do work right for some people.
I have considered several possible solutions.
I think the best solution would be to replace the top alternator with a new 14v one and add a third battery and totally isolate the 12 v buss. This wouldn't be hard to do either. You could mount the battery in the left front civvy position with a civvy battery bracket.
Second best would be to replace the old voltage regulator with a better more up to date one. With the plastic cover in place you probably couldn’t tell this from stock.
The third idea I had would be to replace the top alternator with a 14v one and use it to keep the front battery in balance. This might be bad on the alternators though. Any thoughts?
Mike Howell
Tishomingo, MS
M1010
soon to be M1009
M35A2
M725
Now I understand that the issue of the various charging woes of the M1010
has been discussed in the past (2003), but seemingly a definite answer was
never given.
It appears that all the 12v power is drawn from the front battery creating
an unequal draw situation. There was a DUVAC mod, but I have been unable to
track down the PS issues that covered that.
Looking at it today, it would seem that by placing a "battery equalizer"
such as those from Sure Power (mfg for DUVAC - which is no longer around)
from both batteries to the 12v harness block, rather than fiddling with the
alternator, would be an acceptable alternative.
Any RKIs who can comment? Neil Amrhein? "Ronzo"? Mike Howell?
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