From: Santoken (santoken@bright.net)
Date: Mon Feb 14 2005 - 16:17:50 PST
Buzz,
One option that I have tried in the past:
1) Find a nice square piece of (really) hard wood...prefer White Oak
2) Size it to fit the cylinder as best you can. It should slide down
inside easy so you can remove it later...but you don't want it so small
that it has little square-inch of contact with the piston
3) Get an air hammer with the flat-hammer style bit...you'll know what
to do next. :)
Don't expect to move any of the pistons...'cause when you are trying to
move one, you obvisouly are trying to move them all. All you want to do
it focus some high-frequency, heavy impact transferred to the piston.
Again, DON'T TRY TO MOVE ANY OF THE PISTONS, just work from one hole to
the next giving each a good rat-tat-tat.
That will work...I've used that technique, and recommended it to many
others...every time it worked.
Well...that an a bit of Lube Job :)
Kent
Buzz wrote:
> Aaron,
> I gotta disagree with you on Kroil. I've got a seized L134 engine that has the head off and the
> cylinders looked good so I put about a 1/4" of Kroil on each piston. Once a month I try to turn it
> with a LONG torque amplifier on the wrench but so far it hasn't budged, so I add more Kroil and wait
> another month.
> I've been working on vehicles for 50 years and have yet to find a penetrating oil that REALLY works.
> They all seem pretty much the same to me.
> My solution is a 1/2" impact wrench then if that fails I use the fire wrench!
>
> Kent,
> Do you think that Lube Job is up to the challange?
> I'll email you my address off line and try it in the engine.
>
> Buzz
>
>
> On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 07:20:54 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>http://www.kanolabs.com/
>>
>>I was introduced to Kroil by this list a couple years ago, and it's the
>>best penetrating lube I've ever used. I only wish I knew about it
>>earlier, as it would have saved me a lot of bolts and parts on my M38A1.
>>Things that I thought were seized and long gone could now be recovered
>>with this stuff. I can't praise it enough. Last year I used it to free
>>up a seized model airplane engine that was in storage for over 10 years.
>>Too bad I failed to properly set the programmable trim on that radio
>>controller, but that's another story.
>>
>>
>>Aaron Horrocks
>>ARG, NRA, Mopar Alley, & MVCC Member
>>1952 M38A1
>>1970 Plymouth
>
>
>
> Ok, here's the info on Lube Job:
>
> Price per can: $3.69
> Price per case: $36.24 ($3.02/Can)
> Shipping to the East Coast (case): $8
> Shipping to the West Coast (case): $11
> Shipping for a single can to anywere (USPS): $4
>
> Anyone interested, let me know.
>
> Also, for anyone that scoffs at Lube Job, I'll offer you a challenge, I'll send you one can, free,
> to try. If you don't like it, I'll pay to send it back. If you like it, You pay me...simple offer.
> Takers?
>
> Kent
>
>
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