From: Patrick Jankowiak (recycler@swbell.net)
Date: Wed Mar 30 2005 - 19:20:32 PST
Here's what i have collected for the wisdon on M35 transmission
gear oil..
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Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2004 21:57:26 -0400
From: cgarbee@ipass.net
Subject: Re: [MV] GL-1 90w mineral gear oil source?
Agri-Supply carries Warren GL1 in 90w for under $20 for five
gallons.
http://www.agri-supply.com/
If you can't source GL1 locally and you don't want to pay
shipping, just make
sure that the GL5 that you substitute is also rated MT1. The
MT1 rating is
applied to the GL5 that is safe for yellow metal bearings and
such that are
harmed by the straight GL5. Some GL5's without the MT1 rating
are ok, but it
is very hard to tell which ones since they don't list the
additives on the
label...
Good luck,
CGarbee
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From: "Glenn Shaw" <mpmutt@mtaofnj.us>
Subject: Re: [MV] GL-1 90w mineral gear oil???
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 19:21:10 -0400
Hi Jim
Thanks for the info on the MUTT name. I never knew it came
originally from Ford.
On the topic of GO. Original spec GL1 was mineral oil based with
no =harmful additives to bronze and brass parts. Later versions
such as GL3 and GL4 =as an example had EP or extreme pressure
additives among other things added which would provide better
protection of moving gears etc under the = higher
loads and horsepowers that more modern vehicles were exhibiting.
Unfortunately a side effect of these new lubes were that they
were =corrosive to bronze and brass. This led to failures in
older equipment when = bushings and synchros were destroyed. The
newer transmissions were getting away = from
these metals. Recently this was addressed when *some*
manufacturers of = GL5 Gear Oil which has the EP qualities
adhered to the MT1 standard for = yellow metal protection. So
the best thing would be to use the GL1 which can = still
be found since it is requested by a lot of farmers who demand it.
Or it = can be had from Joe Young, a MV dealer we all know, who
is on the list here. = He can ship it or bring it to any of the
East Coast rallies he is at at a = great price. If you go with
the new GO then you can look for GL5 MT1 oil. =Also
at the time the M151 TM's were written the it was long enough ago
that = the GO standard was at API GL1.
Later
Glenn
MVPA
MTANJ
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I have 80-90 GL-1 in my tranny..
I notice that when it is hot, after say 30 minutes on ye olde
highway at 50 MPH, the gears can be harder to shift through after
stopping at a light than they are when the transmission is cool..
That is, it takes more force on the stick.
So, is the the oil? Would non-EP GL5/MT1 be better? I wonder
what the issue may be.
PJ
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STP in mine helped that.
BjP
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We used 90 wt in the transmission in the Army, and I am pretty
sure the TM specifies that as well. As far as the transmission
being 'tighter' after driving a bit, that makes perfect sense.
Although it has been a while since I drove one to recall for certain.
-Lee Franklin
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I think, by definition, GL5 has the EP additives?
My trans does the same thing, seems like it does it more since I
put in fresh GL1. I have no clue what was in it before.
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I was experiencing similar problems, along with gear noise, in my
5 ton and I added Lucas brand oil treatment, noise went away also
hard shifting, now as to temp. cannot tell any difference, tranny
is still too warm to hold your hand on after much of a trip.
Friend of mine put this treatment in every oil holding box on his
Scout car and is very well pleased with the results.
I am not much on additives but friend of mine spoke so highly of
this (he is old time mechanic) that I tried it
Everette
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I use the newer stuff, specifically 85W-140. I used to use
straight 140 with STP; quiet, yeah, but I was stuck in first
gear until things warmed up a bit. There are new viscosity
improvers now that beat the pants off of anything
that was previously used. Yeah, the new oil has some sulfur
compounds which may [or may not] be hard on yellow metals, but,
what the heck, the ease of use, the longevity, better synchro
operation, and the reduction in cockpit noise are well worth the
possible occasional troubles with the bronze parts. I get to
enjoy the benefits every time I drive, which is daily. That
straight 90-weight GL-1 is really old tech stuff, and, if you
drain it when it is hot, you will notice that it is reduced to
something resembling hot, stinky water...which isn't lubricating
your transmission or axle(s) much -- if at all. The EP
additives eliminate a lot of that, but not all. When hypoid
gears mesh, the sliding action actually pinches and shears the
molecules, making them progressively shorter and reducing the
overall viscosity. That's why old gear oil is always "thinner"
than new. I drive my truck every day, and IF I ever have to
replace or rebuild a transmission or transfer case because of
the oil, it will be time well spent if it involves making the
truck nicer on a day-to-day basis. Something to consider.
There are a lot of fellows on the list who will chastise you for
using the "wrong" parts, even if the parts are better in every
way than the "correct" parts. Ignore them; the world has
changed a lot since 1945, mostly for the better. I am 50 years
old now (Never trust anyone under 30! Where has the time
gone?), and I am a mechanical engineer. When I was a lad, a car
was "worn out" at 100,000 miles. They now go over 200,000
without front-page news being generated, and this is primarily
due to better lubricants being available. Use your best
judgment, and let me know how you turn out. Thank you.
Ed Watts
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