From: Bjorn Brandstedt (super_deuce@hotmail.com)
Date: Fri Jul 29 2005 - 04:49:49 PDT
Gear oil is okay as long as the vehicle is driven regularly. If it sits for
any length of time it will run off the bearing rollers and you will have
rust and pitting for sure.
When i drove through the "fording pond" with the deuce last year, only one
of the inner seals leaked, so they are mostly doing their job.
Bjorn
MVPA 19212
Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains
>From: Patrick Jankowiak <recycler@swbell.net>
>To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>Subject: Re: [MV] M35 Wheel Bearings Hot
>Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 23:20:10 -0500
>
>The inner seals are not designed to retain oil. Mostly they are to keep
>grease in and water out. With no outer seal, and a properly filled
>differential, enough oil may collect in the hub to leak past the inner seal
>and out onto the wheel and tire where it makes a terrible mess. The hub has
>a slinger in it to keep this oil off the brakes to some degree, should this
>happen. The ps magazine article referenced in the web page illustrates how
>this can happen due to a missing or bad cork insert, but having no seal is
>the same mechanics. If the M35 had a better inner seal, then oil bathed
>bearings would be the way to go.
>
>PJ
>
>John Souza wrote:
>
>>Oil will not wash the grease off the bearings and if it does so what.
>>Then the bearings are fed with oil which is exactly what the rear end
>>bearings, transmission, transfer, winch, etc are fed with.
>>
>>I do not place the outer seal on. I pack the bearings with a "bearing
>>packer" by surepak. It squeezes the grease into the bearings. I then
>>lower the other hub all the way to the floor or as far as it will go. I
>>then place the hub with the inner bearing on the spindle. Before placing
>>the outer bearing on, I get the 90 wt. gear oil and fill the bottom of the
>>hub with 90 wt gear oil. I fill it to it almost runs out the lower edge.
>>I then slap on the out bearing and the nut. I tight the nut using a wheel
>>bearing wrench tight until the tire will not move (this will seat teh
>>bearings) and then I back it off until the tire will spin 1 turn with
>>little effort. Then, on goes the washer and the out nut. The out nut you
>>can tight till the cows come home. It it only tighting against the inner
>>nut. Then try and spin the tire again. It may tighten up due to the
>>"draw up" of the slack in the threads. So you may have to take it off and
>>loosen the inner nut and repeat.
>>
>>I learned this from my dad who worked on his Chevy 1 1/2 tons in the
>>1940's to the Peterbuilt Class 8's that he owned and operated until he
>>retired about 20 years ago. He never burned a bearing.
>>
>>The inner seals on the M35's are terrible in my opinion, as they ride on
>>edge of the race. The 5 tons are better. If they were such a great setup,
>>you would see them on civilian trucks.
>>
>>John Souza
>>MVPA #2697
>>Fresno, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>Patrick Jankowiak <recycler@swbell.net> 07/28/05 7:31 PM >>>
>>
>>I have seen the rear hubs warm, but never too hot to keep my hand on for a
>>while. To my knowledge there is only one spec of outer seal, and one spec
>>of inner seal. Here is a web page containing much wisdom of the group and
>>a picture or two.
>>
>>Could it be that the bearings are not adequately packed with grease? In
>>any case, not not ever leave the seals off orthe diff oil will wash all
>>the grease out of the bearings. Check the part numbers you used, and see
>>the web page, there may be part numbers there to compare.
>>
>>A friendly phone call to a company that rebuilds these trucks might help.
>>memphis equipment company has been helpful to me before.
>>
>>http://rawfire.torche.com/~opcom/axle/index.html
>>
>>PJ
>>
>>jonathon wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Greetings,
>>>
>>>Trying to get ready for the Iola WI show and did a brake job on the M35
>>>including all new bearings and seals, also did the M105 Trailer. In case
>>>your asking why, I found a large number of very pitted bearings, also
>>>several oil soaked brakes. But anyway, took the rig out for a test
>>>drive,
>>>the front hubs and the hubs on the trailer are running at best warm as I
>>>would expect, but all 4 rear hubs are so hot that you can hold your hand
>>>on
>>>them for all of 1 or 2 seconds. I figured perhaps I had set the bearings
>>>to
>>>tight, so I Ioosened all 4 of them and repeated the test, same result,
>>>but
>>>this time I noticed that the source of the heat was clearly in the
>>>vicinity
>>>of the outer bearing. Upon closer examination I could see that as I would
>>>tighten up the inner nut, the seal would contact the outer bearing cup
>>>and
>>>then start deflecting, thus putting some amount of axial force on the
>>>seal
>>>contact area that is perhaps more than it should be. It's hard to
>>>imaging
>>>that this is the source of the heat as my test drive was all of 8 miles,
>>>but
>>>I see no other explanation at this point.
>>>
>>>Has anyone here replaced bearings and seals on the rear hubs and seen
>>>this?
>>>Are there perhaps different versions of the seal, one that might have
>>>less
>>>lip protrusion perhaps??? Has anyone tried running without the outer
>>>seals?
>>>
>>>Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>>>
>>>later,
>>>
>>>je
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>>
>>
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>
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