From: MV (MV@dc9.tzo.com)
Date: Mon Sep 19 2005 - 08:13:59 PDT
I have a '96 Dodge Caravan that has this problem. I don't drive it very
often in the winter - so I keep a Hobo Freight solargizer on it. The
way I got around the problem with the Caravan was to find the relay for
the lighter socket that is switched on and off. Remove the relay and
remove the relay cover. Jam the relay on with a few bits of folded
paper. Replace relay cover, replace relay. Now the lighter socket is
hot all of the time but I didn't have to cut up the wiring to overcome
this problem. I think this trick may work with a number of vehicles
that are smart (stupid?) enough to turn off the lighter socket when not
running.
Dave
Floyd Petri wrote:
> Just my 2 cents. Not all cars, trucks, etc are created equal. In other
> words some cigarette lighters are on only when the key is on. Not all,
> but some. So a real Solargizer that is wired direct to the battery works
> all the time. One that plugs into the cigarette lighter may or may not
> work so you need to check this out. I found out the hard way with a dead
> battery.
>
> Floyd
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Buzz" <muttman@charter.net>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 1:50 PM
> Subject: [MV] Solargizers, shutoff switches and leakage.
>
>
>
> Guys,
> FWIW
> I've found a inexpensive "solargizer" at Hobo Freight, and they are now
> on sale
> for $9.99..
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44768
> I've used these solar chargers for the last several years on my ATV's,
> forklift,
> garden tractor and of course jeeps with excellent results. The cord is
> long
> enough to reach a nearby window or door if your vehicle is garaged.
> The one drawback is that there is electronics in the cigarette plug, so
> in my
> case I just installed a cigarette receptacle in an obscure place on the
> jeep,
> which also comes in handy to power a CD player or radio.
> The other requirement is that you have a Master shutoff switch for the
> batteries
> so the chargers won't interact with each other.
> One other note, there is a fuse inside the cigarette connector and to
> replace it
> the tip unscrews then the fuse slides out. I've never had to replace a
> fuse
> yet.
> Now if you want a AC float charger you can also buy:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42292
> But once again a master shutoff switch is required. I've wired two of
> these
> together on a 3 conductor plug so that there is: neg, pos and neg, then
> pos.
> then I plug it into a short cable at the battery box that matches that
> wiring to
> the batteries
>
> Master shutoff switch.
> Once again at Hobo Freight.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92688
> I have a master shut off switch on all my vehicles, first to prevent little
> hands from turning switches ON at MV displays, and second to prevent
> leakage
> currents from discharging the batteries and also to allow me to connect
> up the
> float chargers.
>
> I recently found another source of battery leakage.
> I went to use my GRC-106 and the 2 amp fuse in the R/T was blown. I
> inserted
> the spare and it blew also.
> When I got home I removed the R/T unit to find the problem. I connected
> the
> radio to a 24V current regulated supply, set at 1 amp. With the radio
> switch
> OFF, as soon as I turned on the power supply the current went to 1 amp!
> Checking the schematic I found that there was a filter on the DC socket,
> pos. to
> ground. Using an ohmmeter I read the resistance from pos. to ground at the
> socket and I had a reading of 10 ohms which equals a 2.8 amp. current draw.
> In this case enough to blow the 2 amp. fuse.
>
> I then tested several other radios of different types and found leakage of
> several hundred ohms to several thousand ohms which would leak .030 amps
> to as
> high as .090 amps. Not enough to blow a fuse or trip a breaker but
> surely enough
> to run a battery down over time.
>
> Buzz
>
>
>
> On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 17:47:33 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> Never heard any noise from mine. On the CUCV remember that the
>> batteries are
>> charged by separate alternators, maybe 2-12 volt would work better?
>> There is
>> a company in Alabama that sell 12 volts for around 20.00 + shipping. I
>> have
>> them on my 12v lawnmower and tractor also. I have bought from them before
>> and received good service. Wayne
>>
>> http://www.qninet.com/qniwebstore.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> From: "Darrell Ramsell" <daram@comcast.net>
>>> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [MV] Surplus Solargizers Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 14:13:55
>>> -0700
>>>
>>> Is it normal for these to make a high pitch ringing notice when they are
>>> charging?
>>>
>>> Darrell
>>>
>>>> Ed
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "James Shanks" <n1vbn@yahoo.com>
>>>> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
>>>> Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 13:20
>>>> Subject: [MV] Surplus Solargizers
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Hi Folks,
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone got any NOS Solargizers? I would like to
>>>>> add one to my M-1009 before Winter sets in here
>>>>> in NH. I am in 03038 and could use 3 or 4 of em.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for any and all help.
>>
>>
>
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