From: Chris Brunner (cjbrunner@optonline.net)
Date: Sat Oct 08 2005 - 11:03:08 PDT
I'd agree with Stu here on the resistor mounted to the back of the
firewall (or cowl depending on what school you come from). I've
replaced my resistor two times now because they keep shorting out to
twenty four volts. In the long run I just removed the glow plugs from
the resistor and moved them over to the 12v side of things in the CUCV,
leaving the resistor in place for cosmetic reasons. I switched over to
AC60G's and a manual pushbutton to activate them because from what I've
learned the AC60's are better resistance balanced to keep from
swelling. The plugs took a little modification to fit (needed to grind
the tab down a little bit to fit in the stock wiring).
Chris
Stu wrote:
>First thing I would do is make the glow plugs manual with a button. You
>don't need wait light. I would also bypass the resister on the back wall
>and make it 12v direct to the solenoid.
>
> "Stu"
>Southern NH, USA
>"Live Free Or Die"
>
>MVPA #14790
>
>1967 M151A1 Jeep 1964 M416 Trailer
>1985 M1008 CUCV Pickup
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>-----Original Message-----
>From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On Behalf
>Of Don Low
>Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 11:57 PM
>To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
>Subject: [MV] M1009 problems ???
>
>OK, so months into this , And we are close.
>
>a little catch up, , I had the truck fixed, heads done,
>
>Then I put bosch glow plugs , broke em off,
>
>M son removed the heads drilled em out and got it all back together,
>And striped a alter post, (ep the harder to find 24 volt one)
>Had the old one rebuilt, b a fine shop, that does just alternators and
>starters.
>Said its a Cadillac alternator with a hole drilled in just the right place
>to isolate the regulator negative
>
>I ark welded the 24volt post to the clamp, shen atempting to start it !
>Blew 2 batteries, trying to keep em charged,
>
>New patteries in, and she pulled 5 amps constantly,
>
>replaced the 12 volt alternator with another one I got here and had rebuilt,
>
>traced and tracked , still pulls 5 amps, seems to chard a capacitor
>somewhere,
>removed 24 volt and 12 moved and traced,
>
>SO NOW , TRY IT ?,
>the GEN 1 light is faint , no glow plug light , no solenoid click
>so we
>I have the 12 volt alternator (driver side) 1-2 cable removed (that's the
>one that goes to gen 1 light)
>
>and , hey no 5 amp draw, well, if you have the negative disconnected and
>the amp meter
>between ground and the negative post, it show 5 amps and slowly counts down
>as SOMETHING charges,
>if you touch the ground to the negative it goes to zero amd and stays there
>even when removed again.
>(SO SOME CAPACITOR IS CHARGING)
>
>ANd yep if you give the solenoid 12 volts it clicks on, (still no glow plug
>light)
>and if you turn the key on the solenoid releases)
>
>Theory is, we must have a draw somewhere pulling the 12 volts down so the
>relay can not engage,
>
>I am studing diagrams again , but in the mean time its cold out,
>SOOOOOOOOOO, ANY IDEAS WHAT IS WRONG ???
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>Odonlow@hotmail.com
>donlow.50g.com
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