From: Stu (stuinnh@mvnut.us)
Date: Sun Oct 09 2005 - 05:57:28 PDT
Hi Jeff!
"Stu"
1967 M151A1 Jeep 1964 M416 Trailer
-----Original Message-----
One of the TMs has a really good checkout procedure for the alternators.
Your glow plug relay will energize with 12V directly from the battery, then
When I installed my manual pushbutton, I installed a relay in the circuit so
Jeff
--- Don Low <odonlow@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the both your ideas,
I would be more worried that the solenoid stuck closed and was burning up
the glow plugs. I would wire a light that goes on with glow plug solenoid
so you can see it go out when you release button. Just a thought. I need
to convert my M1008 to manual and that's how I am planning to do it.
Southern NH, USA
"Live Free Or Die"
MVPA #14790
1985 M1008 CUCV Pickup
From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On Behalf
Of Jeff Gatton
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 8:44 AM
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 problems ???
You'll need some jumper wires, a light, battery, and battery charger to do
the
full checkout. If you want it and can't find it, I can look it up.
de-energize when you turn on the key? That sounds like you are losing a
ground, which is supplied by the glow plug module. Your glow plug module
must
be cutting the ground when you turn on your keyswitch, which could also be
caused by a temp sensor or bad module. A manual pushbutton is an easy fix.
I
could feed the WAIT light from the output on the glow plug relay. This way,
you will know if power is getting out of the relay to the glow plugs. (We
can
cover this later).
> I never even considered bypassing the resistor block. (one wonders why it
> even there )
>
> I think my long winded story, overshadowed the question.
>
> so referring to the 20 manual fig f-9 page f-11
>
> 1.generator 1, (left)
> I get a draw of 5 amps constantly (even thought I have the key off )
> (if the key is on the GEN 1 light lights
faintly)
> If i remove the 2 wire connector
> ( one wire goes to the 12 volt Eng harness, and the other to the
GEN 1
> light in the dash )
> , then the current draw goes away. 0 amps .
>
> 2. Glow plug relay, has 24 volts on top,
> and if we hot wire it it actuates fine,
> If you turn the key on when your hot wired it lets go.
> (this is telling me something is grounded ???? or drawing all my
power to
> "normally actuates it."
>
>
> SO,
> 1. What would cause the truck to draw 5 amps , unless the alternator has
the
> gen1 light cable removed ???
>
> 2. What is drawing current form the glow plug relay ??
>
> Same thing I guess ???
>
>
>
>
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> From: Chris Brunner <cjbrunner@optonline.net>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Subject: Re: [MV] M1009 problems ???
> Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 14:03:08 -0400
>
> I'd agree with Stu here on the resistor mounted to the back of the
firewall
> (or cowl depending on what school you come from). I've replaced my
resistor
> two times now because they keep shorting out to twenty four volts. In the
> long run I just removed the glow plugs from the resistor and moved them
over
> to the 12v side of things in the CUCV, leaving the resistor in place for
> cosmetic reasons. I switched over to AC60G's and a manual pushbutton to
> activate them because from what I've learned the AC60's are better
> resistance balanced to keep from swelling. The plugs took a little
> modification to fit (needed to grind the tab down a little bit to fit in
the
> stock wiring).
>
> Chris
>
> Stu wrote:
>
> >First thing I would do is make the glow plugs manual with a button. You
> >don't need wait light. I would also bypass the resister on the back wall
> >and make it 12v direct to the solenoid.
> >
> > "Stu" Southern NH, USA "Live Free Or Die" MVPA #14790
> >
> >1967 M151A1 Jeep 1964 M416 Trailer 1985 M1008 CUCV Pickup
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On
Behalf
> >Of Don Low
> >Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 11:57 PM
> >To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
> >Subject: [MV] M1009 problems ???
> >
> >OK, so months into this , And we are close.
> >
> >a little catch up, , I had the truck fixed, heads done,
> >
> >Then I put bosch glow plugs , broke em off,
> >
> >M son removed the heads drilled em out and got it all back together,
> >And striped a alter post, (ep the harder to find 24 volt one)
> >Had the old one rebuilt, b a fine shop, that does just alternators and
> >starters.
> >Said its a Cadillac alternator with a hole drilled in just the right
place
> >to isolate the regulator negative
> >
> >I ark welded the 24volt post to the clamp, shen atempting to start it !
> >Blew 2 batteries, trying to keep em charged,
> >
> >New patteries in, and she pulled 5 amps constantly,
> >
> >replaced the 12 volt alternator with another one I got here and had
> >rebuilt,
> >
> >traced and tracked , still pulls 5 amps, seems to chard a capacitor
> >somewhere,
> >removed 24 volt and 12 moved and traced,
> >
> >SO NOW , TRY IT ?,
> >the GEN 1 light is faint , no glow plug light , no solenoid click
> >so we
> >I have the 12 volt alternator (driver side) 1-2 cable removed (that's
the
> >one that goes to gen 1 light)
> >
> >and , hey no 5 amp draw, well, if you have the negative disconnected and
> >the amp meter
> >between ground and the negative post, it show 5 amps and slowly counts
down
> >as SOMETHING charges,
> >if you touch the ground to the negative it goes to zero amd and stays
there
> >even when removed again.
> >(SO SOME CAPACITOR IS CHARGING)
> >
> >ANd yep if you give the solenoid 12 volts it clicks on, (still no glow
plug
> >light)
> >and if you turn the key on the solenoid releases)
> >
> >Theory is, we must have a draw somewhere pulling the 12 volts down so the
> >relay can not engage,
> >
> >I am studing diagrams again , but in the mean time its cold out,
> >SOOOOOOOOOO, ANY IDEAS WHAT IS WRONG ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> >
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >Odonlow@hotmail.com
> >donlow.50g.com
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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> >
> >
>
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