From: Bill Kealey (cwkealey@atlanticbb.net)
Date: Thu Nov 17 2005 - 07:26:03 PST
Henry,
If I understand correctly, the stud is broken off inside the hole with none
of the stud above the surface of the block, head or whatever?
If this is the case, then you should be able to center punch the stud.
The left hand drill type of remover may work for you. These are sold at
Sears and I am pretty sure that ACE, Lowes, Home Depot, Snap-On and others
will have pretty much the same type of product. It has been my experience
that the broken studs and bolts have a tendency, if not rusted in, to be
easier to remove once actually broken off. I am by no means knowledgeable
about metallurgy nor am I a machinist but it seems that once the torque(?)
or pressure has been relieved by the nut or bolt head being broken off ...
not a good thing, usually ... then it is easier to get the stud or bolt to
back out if you can get a grip on it.
This second type of remover may very well work for you and it can be used
with a cordless drill or if necessary and a lot slower with a wrench,
including deep wall sockets. However, since you are drilling this would be
extremely slow and tedious. You could pre-drill a hole slightly smaller
then use this type of remover and a socket would probably work. Just a
guess.
I have had success with these types of removers but not nearly as much as I
would have hoped for based on product reviews and advertisements.
It could very well be the perfect product ... and just operator error on my
part.
Again, I would certainly use a punch and ball-peen hammer to get a vibration
going with penetrating oil before doing anything.
I believe also that the welding idea will work, just hope you are a much
better welder/weldor(?) than I am. <grin>
Bill K.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ygmir" <ygmir@onemain.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] inverted "easy out".......
> The problem with welding onto it, is, that it's recessed an inch or more
> inside the rim it's holding on. So, no access from the sides. Only
> straight down.
> It seems one of the gadgets that are socket like would be best, although,
> it was suggested that a piece of pipe/tube just bigger than the shaft,
> but, smaller than the hole it's down in, be placed in, then, arc welded
> from the inside of the tube. Sounds like a good idea, too.
> Thanks,
> Henry
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.4 : Tue Jul 18 2006 - 21:32:01 PDT