From: Glen Closson (glen_closson@earthlink.net)
Date: Mon Mar 06 2006 - 18:42:34 PST
Well, good idea, but a linear drop-down regulator will have to "consume"
24-12=12V @ 6A. Which means it will have to dissipate 72 watts of power
which will make it quite toasty. You could use a giant resistor, but it
will still dissipate 72 watts.
If you make a switching drop-down regulator, it will dissipate much less
power, but be more complicated.
What I did for my trailer was have two separate light circuits and sets of
lights. Simple and reliable.
Regards,
Glen
"Chance favors the prepared mind." ~ Louis Pasteur
-----Original Message-----
OK... I'm a little of a microgeek. How about something along this line per
-----Original Message-----
From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On Behalf
Of Alex
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 6:24 PM
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
Subject: Re: [MV] TRAILERS --
bulb for the mil 24 volt headlights? Any simple 3 terminal device that will
handle the 6 amps or so? I hate buying 24volt headlights. :( Alex
From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On Behalf
Of Patrick Jankowiak
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 11:21 PM
To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
Subject: Re: [MV] TRAILERS --
One thing could be done, to use a small 24-to-12 switching power supply
(buck converter) for each lamp to be lit on the trailer. 24V/1A in, 12V/2A
out.. less any inefficiencies.
truck socket sees proper currents, trailer lamps see proper voltages.
(unless you have a fat wallet, you should make your own switchers.)
This could also be done cheaply with any solid state circuit that would turn
but that's for geeks, making your own electronics.
The easiest and cheapest thing by far (other than changing lamps) is to add
PJ
Arthur Bloom wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
the power on and off maybe 100 times a second with a 50% duty cycle.
Would not need a full blown regulated switcher. (visions of a 555 timer and
a BDW94CFP (12A PNP Darlington in an isolated TO-220 case))
a second set of lamp fixtures with 24V lamps to include the proper connector
for your truck's trailer socket. Besides, due to the oddities of various
brake light wiring schemes among civvy vehicles, you may not want to mix and
match the wiring.
> From: "Ryan Gill" <rmgill@mindspring.com>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 2:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [MV] TRAILERS --
>
>
> At 9:58 AM -0700 3/3/06, SGM PANTANO wrote:
>
>>Hey...wake up.. There is no such thing as a 24 volt or a 12 volt trailer..
>>The light receptacles in the Military tail lights could care less what
bulb
>>is in there..
>
>
> But the wiring could. 24 volt wires could be sized smaller, try to run
> the same wattage bulb at 12 volts and you could fry your wires. Check
> the wire harness first!
>
>
>
> Twelve gauge copper wire has an ampacity of 41 in open air (single
insulated
> conductor) and an ampacity of 23 in a harness. For 14 gauge wire, the
> ratings are 32 amps and 17 amps, respectively. It would take a lot of
lamps
> to reach those limits. In addition, there are fuses which are designed
> to fry before the wires do.
>
> Arthur P. Bloom
>
>
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